It used to be that I stowed away my kayak gear sometime in late November (or early December even) and even if I stuffed everything into a closet “rode hard and put up wet,” invariably in the spring I’d devote a week to gearing up again. The hardware, accessories and apparel all changed as my kayak fishing evolved through the years, but the need for a complete equipment check remains a vital part of any kayak fisherman’s annual maintenance routine. Back in the day, I’d use the Jamaica Bay Tournament in May as the time stamp for getting everything in order. Now that I’m fishing through winter and into the spring, there’s no longer a clear marker for when to do my complete check. So I make one. What I don’t do is tell myself that “little lie” that we sometimes tell ourselves, I’ll get to it later. Don’t put it off. While you’re in there, you’ll probably find other things that needed attention.
First, the obvious stuff. I get my reels reconditioned for about $30 each. Mine are Spinfisher 3500s, which are durable and dunkable and if you regularly rinse them after use, they’ll last forever. This is a vast departure from my previous rods, which seldom lasted more than two seasons in the conditions that our team often fishes in. I’ve attached a 2.5-gallon freshwater tank with a cheap electric washdown sprayer inside my back hatch. Made a huge difference. Same thing with tackle. Upgrade your hooks to 4x and rinse your lures after using them and you’re less likely to have a hook straighten when you need it the most. Same thing for my line. I like braid and after weight-testing the top brands, Power Pro (regular, not Slick) was the strongest. Fresh braid goes on at the start of every season. This is especially important after winter fishing. Ice gets between the braid strands and separates them over time. Not a problem for the 24-inch stripers I typically get on the Housatonic in January, but a Montauk cow will snap it in a heartbeat. I’ll change it at the end of the season too, if it’s gotten a good workout.
Electronics, if you have them, must also be maintained. I’ve found that a dab of marine grease on the contacts of my fish finder’s head unit prevents the corrosion that can make it kick in and out in wet conditions. I’ve said it before: Anything that I need out there, I have two of. That goes for maintaining the spares. New batteries in everything; lights, handheld GPS, PFD strobe and any handheld VHF/radios.
If your dry suit (or dry top and dry pants) was stored in a cold place (like my shop in the winter), then the extreme temperatures can cause an older pair to crack or fatigue. Put on some sweats underneath and get wet in your suit. The wet spots that appear will tell you where repairs are needed. To that end, I’ve used plastic spray (Flex-Seal, Plasti-Dip spray, or Gorilla Spray) to re-seal leaky dry pants. I just don’t recommend it for the inside of the boot/ankle areas because the rubbery texture will make it difficult to get your feet out after wearing them. Around the feet, I spray on the outside, and it works just as well. The salt will deteriorate your dry suit if you don’t rinse it off. You don’t want to find out that you have a leak the first day that you launch to go fishing. It’s no fun having a wet butt all day.
Last, check your water. Check that your access is still open. COVID has altered the hours of operation and conditions of use for nearly all of the state and county parks in NY. My teammates and I have had to get very creative in order to maintain access to our favorite fishing spots. I’ll leave it at that. Check that winter storms haven’t changed the landscape, as often happens here along the beaches of Long Island. There’s nothing you can do about it, but a different sandbar or sluiceway creates different conditions. It can also create new opportunities to fish, as when a barrier beach is breached and a new inlet is formed – even if only temporarily.
This is an exciting time of year for fishermen everywhere, and maintaining the things that keep you safe out there is always important. When the thing that’s keeping you alive and well out on the ocean is a kayak, the periodic maintenance becomes critical. It’s an opportunity to reflect on what has worked for you and what can be better. It’s an investment in your kayak, as well as an investment in your own future. Be safe out there!
First, the obvious stuff. I get my reels reconditioned for about $30 each. Mine are Spinfisher 3500s, which are durable and dunkable and if you regularly rinse them after use, they’ll last forever. This is a vast departure from my previous rods, which seldom lasted more than two seasons in the conditions that our team often fishes in. I’ve attached a 2.5-gallon freshwater tank with a cheap electric washdown sprayer inside my back hatch. Made a huge difference. Same thing with tackle. Upgrade your hooks to 4x and rinse your lures after using them and you’re less likely to have a hook straighten when you need it the most. Same thing for my line. I like braid and after weight-testing the top brands, Power Pro (regular, not Slick) was the strongest. Fresh braid goes on at the start of every season. This is especially important after winter fishing. Ice gets between the braid strands and separates them over time. Not a problem for the 24-inch stripers I typically get on the Housatonic in January, but a Montauk cow will snap it in a heartbeat. I’ll change it at the end of the season too, if it’s gotten a good workout.
Electronics, if you have them, must also be maintained. I’ve found that a dab of marine grease on the contacts of my fish finder’s head unit prevents the corrosion that can make it kick in and out in wet conditions. I’ve said it before: Anything that I need out there, I have two of. That goes for maintaining the spares. New batteries in everything; lights, handheld GPS, PFD strobe and any handheld VHF/radios.
If your dry suit (or dry top and dry pants) was stored in a cold place (like my shop in the winter), then the extreme temperatures can cause an older pair to crack or fatigue. Put on some sweats underneath and get wet in your suit. The wet spots that appear will tell you where repairs are needed. To that end, I’ve used plastic spray (Flex-Seal, Plasti-Dip spray, or Gorilla Spray) to re-seal leaky dry pants. I just don’t recommend it for the inside of the boot/ankle areas because the rubbery texture will make it difficult to get your feet out after wearing them. Around the feet, I spray on the outside, and it works just as well. The salt will deteriorate your dry suit if you don’t rinse it off. You don’t want to find out that you have a leak the first day that you launch to go fishing. It’s no fun having a wet butt all day.
Last, check your water. Check that your access is still open. COVID has altered the hours of operation and conditions of use for nearly all of the state and county parks in NY. My teammates and I have had to get very creative in order to maintain access to our favorite fishing spots. I’ll leave it at that. Check that winter storms haven’t changed the landscape, as often happens here along the beaches of Long Island. There’s nothing you can do about it, but a different sandbar or sluiceway creates different conditions. It can also create new opportunities to fish, as when a barrier beach is breached and a new inlet is formed – even if only temporarily.
This is an exciting time of year for fishermen everywhere, and maintaining the things that keep you safe out there is always important. When the thing that’s keeping you alive and well out on the ocean is a kayak, the periodic maintenance becomes critical. It’s an opportunity to reflect on what has worked for you and what can be better. It’s an investment in your kayak, as well as an investment in your own future. Be safe out there!
