This isn't a short video, but its about the best I've seen demonstrating the construction AND testing of these two knots, head-to-head.
First an important point - if you don't want to bother with learning either of these, that's fine, assuming that you are using a rod that does not feature a set of the newest "micro-guides." I'm talking here about running guides in the 3-5mm range. This would include rods like the latest generations of slow-pitch rods from about every manufacturer. Also applies to less radical rods, such as my own Diawa Proteus PRSS64H - which has become my go-to for togging in any depth/current condition that will allow up to a 6oz sinker.
All of these rods utilize guides that will present an "interference" issue, should an Alberto, Albright, or Double-Uni be used. Those knots will not only clang and sometimes catch in such tiny guides, but could also get caught in the tip-top, either instance possibly causing a catastrophic failure under high-stress conditions. That would be bad - especially if you're using a rod that's been discontinued from the manufacturer, like my Proteus for example.
If your rod is built with "normal" guides, say with the smallest being a 6mm, then any of the three bulkier knots that I mentioned above will work fine. They'll still clang thru the rod's smaller guides, but will not catch. If not, then this video does have some important info for you to consider.
The first part is all about the tying of the two knots. The second is the test portion. Note that the PR-Bobbin was not only more consistant in its breaking strength, but in my experience is easier to tie as well. I seem to have an issue remembering the "over and under" turns that a properly tied FG requires. Eh, maybe its just me, but I don't really think so. With the PR-B, the only real key is to find the proper tension of the bobbin spool - and then leave it alone, never backing it off, ever.
Here are my thoughts, based on direct experience this past Fall season. As I mentioned above, my go-to tog outfit this year was the Daiwa Proteus, carring a Daiwa Pluton 200H, loaded with 30lb Sufix 832. I use the PR-Bobbin knot to attach an 8' piece of 40lb clear Berkley Trilene Big Game as my shock leader. My actual rigs are constructed with 50lb Big Game, which I tie to the shocker using 100lb Crane swivels. My hook leaders are made up with 60lb Ande or Hi-Seas hard mono leader material.
In the 10 trips that I sailed this past season I was never able to break the PR-Bobbin knot, despite hanging up innumerable times. Not a single break. And it wasn't for lack of trying, I can tell you that. In fact that knot was so strong the I was actually afraid that I was going to break the rod or reel numerous times. Almost every induced break-off was at the Improved Clinch of the shocker to the swivel or the sinker's Surgeon's Loop. That's how strong the PR-B knot is.
As far as the tying, when building a PR-B knot, I leave an 1/8" of leader and the same of the 832 main line. Then BEING VERY CAREFUL, I take my trusty BIC lighter and melt back both of them to the knot. A quick rolling of the melted end between my thumb and first finger smooths it all out nicely. Every now and then I do use a UV-curing adhesive over the half-hitches, but this is not really required.
O.K., enough with the typing - go watch the video. If you want to further discuss any of this, I'm always around . . .
First an important point - if you don't want to bother with learning either of these, that's fine, assuming that you are using a rod that does not feature a set of the newest "micro-guides." I'm talking here about running guides in the 3-5mm range. This would include rods like the latest generations of slow-pitch rods from about every manufacturer. Also applies to less radical rods, such as my own Diawa Proteus PRSS64H - which has become my go-to for togging in any depth/current condition that will allow up to a 6oz sinker.
All of these rods utilize guides that will present an "interference" issue, should an Alberto, Albright, or Double-Uni be used. Those knots will not only clang and sometimes catch in such tiny guides, but could also get caught in the tip-top, either instance possibly causing a catastrophic failure under high-stress conditions. That would be bad - especially if you're using a rod that's been discontinued from the manufacturer, like my Proteus for example.
If your rod is built with "normal" guides, say with the smallest being a 6mm, then any of the three bulkier knots that I mentioned above will work fine. They'll still clang thru the rod's smaller guides, but will not catch. If not, then this video does have some important info for you to consider.
The first part is all about the tying of the two knots. The second is the test portion. Note that the PR-Bobbin was not only more consistant in its breaking strength, but in my experience is easier to tie as well. I seem to have an issue remembering the "over and under" turns that a properly tied FG requires. Eh, maybe its just me, but I don't really think so. With the PR-B, the only real key is to find the proper tension of the bobbin spool - and then leave it alone, never backing it off, ever.
Here are my thoughts, based on direct experience this past Fall season. As I mentioned above, my go-to tog outfit this year was the Daiwa Proteus, carring a Daiwa Pluton 200H, loaded with 30lb Sufix 832. I use the PR-Bobbin knot to attach an 8' piece of 40lb clear Berkley Trilene Big Game as my shock leader. My actual rigs are constructed with 50lb Big Game, which I tie to the shocker using 100lb Crane swivels. My hook leaders are made up with 60lb Ande or Hi-Seas hard mono leader material.
In the 10 trips that I sailed this past season I was never able to break the PR-Bobbin knot, despite hanging up innumerable times. Not a single break. And it wasn't for lack of trying, I can tell you that. In fact that knot was so strong the I was actually afraid that I was going to break the rod or reel numerous times. Almost every induced break-off was at the Improved Clinch of the shocker to the swivel or the sinker's Surgeon's Loop. That's how strong the PR-B knot is.
As far as the tying, when building a PR-B knot, I leave an 1/8" of leader and the same of the 832 main line. Then BEING VERY CAREFUL, I take my trusty BIC lighter and melt back both of them to the knot. A quick rolling of the melted end between my thumb and first finger smooths it all out nicely. Every now and then I do use a UV-curing adhesive over the half-hitches, but this is not really required.
O.K., enough with the typing - go watch the video. If you want to further discuss any of this, I'm always around . . .
