Building My New Narrow Abu Togging Reel

Leprechaun

Kind of a Big Deal - In My Mind Anyway
Staff member
Those that have followed my reel-building & repair machinations over the years will know that I'm partial to Abu round baitcasters. They were the first "real" reels that I used, and for the past 50+ years I've been collecting them and their parts to upgrade, modify, and in some case completely wreck some perfectly fine examples. I guess I have at least 5 shoe boxes full of disassembled components, in addition to maybe 20 assembled examples, most of a very custom construct. This not to brag, rather to demonstrate my level of complete insanity on the subject. It's a sickness - of sorts anyway.

Over those 50+ years, and particularly over the past 25 or so seasons of using the Interwebs, I've found many, many vendors of factory, one-off and completely custom Abu round reel parts. I have to believe that there is no other reel family that has more of a custom component "cottage" industry than Abu round reels. It's just not possible. Over the years I've ordered in parts from countries as diverse as England, Germany, Switzerland, Japan, the PRC, lots of USA-built goodies, and of course, Sweden.

With fluke season over, and with a bit of a wait for blackfishing to open up, I've been "casting" about for a project to occupy the time in which I have neither boat nor house work to take care of. The past few rainy weekends have been perfect to scratch my new-reel itch - and the results are as follows in the next few of posts.

What I want to build is a very narrow-framed Abu round reel, without levelwind, so that having to manually "thumb" the line whilst retrieving is kept to a minimum. Think something along the lines of the tiny Accurate Valiant lever-dragger and you'd be close, width and height-wise. The vision is to put this together for use with my Jigging World Ghost Hunter 300gram slow pitch rod, which at only 5'8" overall, is just too cool for school.

Before getting into the components and where they come from, here's a jump-ahead to the completed reel, so that you have a better idea of where we're heading:

IMG_5087 (2)_edited.jpg


Pretty trick, no?

Here's the sum total of the components that will make this reel go:

IMG_5087 (1).jpg


I'll get into the details and reasoning for each specific part as we go forward. If you have no real interest in such matters, if you just want to go into a store and buy an appropriate reel - I salute you! I like doing that too. But I get far more satisfaction from building and fishing my one-offs, reels that NO ONE else owns. So fair warning, its gonna get very detailed from here forward.

The basis of any good tog reel custom build is the frame. The better the frame, the better the reel will perform. This is because its largely up to the frame to resist any vectored torque loads, thus preventing spool or gearing misalignments. Over the years I've segued first through factory aluminum-plated frames, then custom-modified factory chrome-on-brass versions, and finally to what I will use here - a very trick 6-axis CNC-milled aluminum frame from QTC Manufacturing.

On the right is a recently modded factory chrome-on-brass Abu 4500 frame, with the level wind worm and pawl assembly replaced with a Blakdog Tackle stainless steel cross bar, sitting alongside the QTC custom frame.

IMG_5088_edited.jpg


I'm fairly sure that most here have probably never heard of QTC Manufacturing. But I can assure you that in Europe, particularly the UK, they were a major vendor to the competitive distance casting crowd. Very, very well known in fact. I say "were" because sadly, one of the principals recently passed away and so the company disbanded - at least the reel-building portion of it, as they are still a pretty decent-sized contract machine shop in England. They always produced small batches of 5500 and 6500-sized frames as a side business. But with some fancy talking, for me they made a run of 4500-sized frames, of which I purchased two. A garnet red one and a jet black version. What a pity that there will never be any others produced. Here's some more pix:

IMG_5090 (2).jpg


IMG_5090 (1).jpg


This is the foundation of a reel that will have to punch way above Abu/Sweden's original intended purpose - which was catching large-mouth bass here, and salmon and pike on the other side of the Atlantic.

Next, what to do about gears? Everybody knows that Abu gears, though built of a fairly tough brass alloy, can have a shortened life expectancy when dealing with larger, hard-fighting saltwater fish. It's that way with all small baitcasters that use brass gears. Just a fact of light-tackle life. Luckily, there is a solution - replace the factory brass gearset with a custom cut stainless steel version, from Blakdog Tackle (BDT) in the UK. Though steel gears are a bit more noisy and also a little geary when new, they do break in nicely after a couple of trips and sound/feel not very different from the softer brass versions. It just takes the proper lube, some patience and a batch of decent fish.

The next question is what gear ratio to put into this reel. Lower is always better when fishing for hard-pulling bottom fish. I don't really believe that anyone can question that. Abu used to offer what they called the 4/5/6600 "Winch" series of round reels, which featured stump-pulling 3.8:1 gears - and some of my other reels do carry those. Unfortunately, there are no common-source vendors producing 3.8:1 gears in SS, so I had to go with the 5.3:1 versions - still O.K., I guess, but not the beasts that the lower ratio set is. We shall see how this goes, as I do have a stash of the factory 3.8:1 sets, and it would be no big deal to swap a set of those into this reel. But I really want to sample what the SS gearset provides. Take a look at a comparison of the two metals The SS main has a metal drag washer sitting in it. The brass set is the rare 3.8:1 version, note the far larger and fewer teeth on the pinion.

IMG_5092 (2)_edited.jpg


Here's the SS set by itself - I had to grind the main gear a bit to get proper clearance for the full Smooth-Drag drag washer setup, hence the slightly irregular look of the main's "inside" surface. I could have polished it all smooth and shiny, but my sanity has not yet reached that level of crazy. But it does seem to be trending in that direction, I guess.

IMG_5092 (1).jpg


End Part One
 
And what will those fancy SS gears ride on? Take a look at this "brake plate." If you're an Abu fan you will see it immediately:

IMG_5095 (2).jpg


This is a very rare piece, in that though its a current gen-C3 component, it carries the optional little factory stud for the auxiliary anti-reverse dog, like the very old-school red Abu-Garcia 5000's from the '60's. Incorporating an aux anti-reverse dog is important - if you are using the reel in colder weather. This because anti-reverse bearings in modern reels tend to have the nasty habit of slipping backwards under pressure when cold, a result of the low temps and thin oils not really getting along with it (that goes double if any reel grease gets in that roller bearing). Too much reel oil or any grease at all in the AR bearing can cause it to slip occasionally. Using the aux anti-reverse dog eliminates this potential issue. Nothing worse than losing a good fish if your AR permits the handle to free-spin backwards. Ask me how I know. Ugggh. There was a lead-up to this type of reel modding, and some of it didn't go all that well. Home-grown custom "R&D" work seldom goes smoothly every time, that's for sure.

Next we have the full Smooth Drag setup for Abu round reels. CarbonTex washers, along with their proprietary precision-ground SS pressure washers. Not only will this smooth out a balky drag, but it will also generate far more stopping power - just the thing for keeping a big-ass fish out of the rough stuff.

The "greased drag washer" argument is easy here - no drag grease in an Abu round reels, please. Yes, it will help with initial start-up smoothness, but even the lightest amount applied to those carbon washers will greatly decrease drag stopping power. Save that stuff for the Shimano reels that are designed to use it.

IMG_5095 (1).jpg


Here are the drag's curvy "Belleville" washers. I made a slight modification to the drag sleeve, so to accommodate an extra washer. Set up as such "( ) )," they will provide the full range of adjustment and a good bot of added pressure, which the Smooth Drag CarbonTex washer set can effectively use. I avoid the original chrome-on-plain-steel curvy washers that Abu commonly uses, because they can rust right through the thin chrome flashing, pretty much as you watch them. Instead, I went right to the SS versions that Abu now puts in their "better" reels"

IMG_5118_edited.jpg


Up next we are gonna get very "bespoke" indeed. One of the big weak points of the current Abu "Ultra-Cast" reels is the feeble spool shaft. The issue is that though the spool bearing (or load) carrying part of it is a robust 4mm, it necks down to 3mm at its far end, where it enters its receiver in the right side plate. Big fish pulling against heavy drag settings can cause it to actually flex at that point, causing the spool to begin rubbing against the frame; or in really bad cases, the shaft can take on a permanent bend, jamming the reel. I wouldn't want that to happen to such a nice reel, for sure. Especially so because it includes a very special and now irreplaceable aluminum frame. There is a solution, but it takes some work to get there.

BDT offer a full 4mm spool shaft, by Rocket Reels, again a UK company. But the catch is that they only make it in the sizes that fit the 5500 and 6500-sized Abu reels. Look here at the two side by side, and end-on. The increased distal-end diameter of the Rocket Reels version is obvious:

IMG_5096.jpg


IMG_5098.JPG


No blackfish can bend that 4mm shaft, no way, no how. To accommodate the stronger shaft I CAREFULLY and precisely measured an original factory 4500 shaft with my handy-dandy Mitutoyo Vernier caliper and then cut and end-polished the new, more robust Rocket Reel version, which finished product is displayed in the above two pix. Man, that is some tough SS. Let's just say it gave my little carbide-bladed Dremel tool all it could handle. For a minute or so, anyway.

O.K., that went fine, but now there are other issues afoot. One modification usually requires another to get everything happily working together. This is nearly always the case. Both the factory "speed bullet" which goes between the left side spool bearing and the side plate, as well as the little receiver port in the left side plate are both sized for the factory-original 3mm necked-down shaft. So off to my office I went, to use my company's drill press and a cobalt 4mm bit to open up both of those components from 3mm to 4mm. It was a bit of a PITA, as its really tough to center and fixture such delicate components, without distorting them. Got it done though, and it turned out fine:

IMG_5106 (2).jpg


IMG_5106 (1).jpg


IMG_5100 (2).jpg


End Part Two
 
Most of my neurosis-induced work is now complete. Here's a couple of shots of the spool, which now carries ABEC-5 ceramic-hybrid bearings from Boca Bearings. Also visible is the Rocket Reel heavy-duty SS "Spool Brake Block Plate," which will not be used with any anti-backlash casting blocks - no long distance casting anticipated with this build, that's for sure.

IMG_5100 (1).jpg


IMG_5107 (2).jpg


Another seeming minor upgrade, which is really not all that minor in its effect, is the use of these SS left side plate screws, along with their teeny, tiny nylon washers. Let me tell you why. The factory chrome-on-brass screws have a nasty habit of deforming whilst screwing them down tight, raising tiny little burrs at the Phillips cross cuts - which are annoying as heck, if you plan to "palm" the reel while fishing - which is pretty much the only way I hold my rods. Adding these very tough SS screws eliminates that annoyance, as they are far better at tolerating the hardened tip of a good Phillips screwdriver without burring up.

The little nylon washers serves two purposes. First, they seal the reel at those screw holes, and second, they prevent the screws from "creating a battery" with the aluminum side plate, meaning no galvanic corrosion at those holes - a very common problem with factory Abu reels. Again, BDT provided these small, but important bits:

IMG_5116_edited.jpg


Had enough yet? No worries, getting close to the end now. :)

Let's talk about one of my favorite subjects - reel handles. I wanted this reel to be extra trick, so no clunky aftermarket "power handle" for this one. Certainly not on such a narrow, tiny reel. No sir.

What I found was that Gomexus/AliExpress has released a new mongo-sized 120mm double knob handle, with truly meaty 30mm knobs - and right now they are on sale for a very fair price. Given that its a direct knock-off of the ridiculously expensive Japanese Varial DRT setup (approx $500), and to my eyes has very close to the same level of aluminum finish work and knobs, it was pretty much a no-brainer addition for this one-of-one reel. Particularly as it costs roughly a 10th of the DRT’s price. It's a "Must Have."

IMG_5107 (1).jpg


IMG_5109 (2).jpg


Forget what you know about double paddle handles. This thing is monstrous, comparatively speaking, coming in at a full 120mm, making each "side" longer than most every aftermarket "power" handle on the market. And those 30mm knobs? Awesome to use. What a nice piece!

Its fixtured to the reel with a very unique single aluminum machined nut - no secondary lock plate or added set screw needed. I think this is because the nut has a recessed O-ring, which provides enough grip inside its recess to prevent the nut from loosening:

IMG_5117_edited.jpg


IMG_5120_edited.jpg


From here forward it is just a matter of assembling and tweeking the reel as it goes together A bunch of trial fittings were needed, as I think I may have drilled either the speed bullet or the left side plate just a teeny hair off-center, causing a miniscule amount of binding. Most "normals" probably wouldn't feel it, but it was definitely there. I remedied it by dressing the speed bullet's rear surface with some "crocus cloth" affixed to a flat steel plate. Worked like a charm.

Here are the tools needed for this job:

IMG_5109 (1).jpg


A high quality Wera #0 Phillips from Germany (where else?), the Torx handle nut wrench that Gomexus ships with their handles, a very trick handle nut tool from Heighten (AliExpress), that I use in place of a coin to open the right side plate of Abu reels without damaging the delicate chrome-on-brass knurled screws, and a tiny flat jeweler's screwdriver to remove the easy-to-lose E-clip that resides just under the reel handle's nut.

All in all, I'm calling this a success - but naturally, the fish will have the final say in a couple of weeks.

IMG_5086 (2).jpg


IMG_5086 (1).jpg


What could I have done differently? Well, I could have made this reel even stronger in two ways. First, I happen to own two pairs of Abu's jet black "Big Game" side plates. These are made of brass, instead of the aluminum ones that I spec'ed here. Two negatives with them though. First, they are heavy, much heavier than the aluminum versions. Second, and of far more importance, the Big Game left side plate is not "flat," meaning that the spool tension adjusting knob sticks out of the left side plate. This sux if you like to palm your reel - as its always sticking out, right into the middle of one's hand. They are known to be considerably stronger, so there's always the possibility of a future side plate swap, if the "Force," or a big-ass tog moves me.

Second, some very rare and long-discontinued Abu reels came with a heavy-duty chromed brass brake plate for the gears to sit on. This would be WAAAY stronger than the aluminum one that I selected out of my inventory. It is widely acknowledged to be "the" plate for a reel build-up such as this. But again, two trade-offs. There are ALWAYS trade-offs, it seems. Firstly, its very heavy, and second finding a chromed brass brake plate with the little aux anti-reverse stud has eluded my searching for about 20 years. Someday I'll find one, I guess. But I don't think it would make much difference in this build, as I've already used enough H/D components that such a brake plate is probably unnecessary. Blackfish are tough as heck, but they aren't bluefin tuna, right?

Like I wrote, we'll find out soon enough . . . Cheers, all! ;)
 
Very beautiful build and one I suspect the local Tog will come to fear!!

A custom Abu build like that would certainly be a bucket list kind of purchase for me. Maybe someday.
 
Most of my neurosis-induced work is now complete. Here's a couple of shots of the spool, which now carries ABEC-5 ceramic-hybrid bearings from Boca Bearings. Also visible is the Rocket Reel heavy-duty SS "Spool Brake Block Plate," which will not be used with any anti-backlash casting blocks - no long distance casting anticipated with this build, that's for sure.

View attachment 68938

View attachment 68939

Another seeming minor upgrade, which is really not all that minor in its effect, is the use of these SS left side plate screws, along with their teeny, tiny nylon washers. Let me tell you why. The factory chrome-on-brass screws have a nasty habit of deforming whilst screwing them down tight, raising tiny little burrs at the Phillips cross cuts - which are annoying as heck, if you plan to "palm" the reel while fishing - which is pretty much the only way I hold my rods. Using very tough SS screws eliminates that annoyance, as they are far better at tolerating the hardened tip of a good Phillips screwdriver without burring up.

The little nylon washers serves two purposes. First, they seal the reel at those screw holes, and second, they prevent the screws from "creating a battery" with the aluminum side plate, meaning no galvanic corrosion at those holes - a very common problem with factory Abu reels. Again, BDT provided these small, but important bits:

View attachment 68940

Had enough yet? No worries, getting close to the end now. :)

Let's talk about one of my favorite subjects - reel handles. I wanted this reel to be extra trick, so no clunky aftermarket "power handle" for this one. Certainly not on such a narrow, tiny reel. No sir.

What I found was that Gomexus/PRC has released a new mongo-sized 120mm double knob handle, with truly large 30mm knobs - and right now they are on sale for a very fair price. Given that its a direct knock-off of the ridiculously expensive Japanese Varial DRT setup (approx $500), and to my eyes has very close to the same level of aluminum finish work and knobs, it was almost a no-brainer addition for this one-of-one reel. Particularly as it costs roughly a 10th of the DRT’s price. It's a "Must Have."

View attachment 68941

View attachment 68942

Forget what you know about double paddle handles. This thing is monstrous, comparatively speaking, coming in at a full 120mm, making each "side" longer than most every aftermarket "power" handle on the market. And those 30mm knobs? Awesome to use. What a nice piece!

Its fixtured to the reel with a very unique single aluminum machined nut - no secondary lock plate or added set screw needed. I think its because the nut has a recessed O-ring, that provides enough grip inside its recess that the nut will not come loose:

View attachment 68943

View attachment 68944

From here forward it is just a matter of assembling the reel. A bunch of trial fittings were needed, as I think I may have drilled either the speed bullet or the left side plate just a teeny hair off-center, causing a miniscule amount of binding. Most "normals" probably wouldn't feel it, but it was definitely there. I remedied it by dressing the speed bullet's rear surface with some "crocus cloth" affixed to a flat steel plate. Worked like a charm.

Here are the tools needed for this job:

View attachment 68945

A high quality Wila #0 Phillips from Germany (where else?), the Torx handle nut wrench that Gomexus ships with their handles, a very trick handle nut tool from Heighten (AliExpress), that I use in place of a coin to open the right side plate of Abu reels without damaging the delicate chrome-on-brass knurled screws, and a tiny flat jeweler's screwdriver to remove the easy-to-lose E-clip that resides just under the reel handle's nut.

All in all, I'm calling this a success - but naturally, the fish will have the final say in a couple of weeks.

View attachment 68947

View attachment 68948

What could I have done differently? Well, I could have made this reel even stronger in two ways. First, I happen to own two pairs of Abu's jet black "Big Game" side plates. These are made of brass, instead of the aluminum ones that I spec'ed here. Two negatives with them though. First, they are heavy, much heavier than the aluminum versions. Second, and of far more importance, the Big Game left side plate is not "flat," meaning that the spool tension adjusting knob sticks out of the left side plate. This sux if you like to palm your reel - as its always sticking out, right into the middle of one's hand. They are known to be considerably stronger, so there's always the possibility of a future side plate swap, if the "Force," or a big-ass tog moves me.

Second, some very rare and long-discontinued Abu reels came with a heavy-duty chromed brass brake plate for the gears to sit on. This would be WAAAY stronger than the aluminum one that I selected out of my inventory. It is widely acknowledged to be "the" plate for a reel such as this. But again, two trade-offs. There are ALWAYS trade-offs, it seems. Firstly, its very heavy, and second finding a chromed brass brake plate with the little aux anti-reverse stud has alluded my searching for about 20 years. Someday I'll find one, I guess. But I don't think it would make much difference in this build, as I've already used enough H/D components that such a brake plate is probably unnecessary. Blackfish are tough as heck, but they aren't bluefin tuna, right?

Like I wrote, we'll find out soon enough . . . Cheers, all! ;)
How much does the final product weigh?
 
Huh, good question. Weighed it this morning - comes in at 11.7oz with the line aboard. So, let's call it 11.5oz bare.

By way of comparison, two of the lighter factory reels out there that might be used for a similar purpose are the low-profile Shimano Tranx 300A (11.6oz bare), and the round AVET SXJ (14oz bare). I'd say this little Abu custom is good to go in the weight category.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Latest articles

Latest posts

Back
Top