Bearing stuck on spool post problem.

Pescadoo

New Angler
Took apart my Newelll 220 reel and can’t get the bearing off the post. Soaked it in WD40 and still unable to get it to loosen. Any suggestions would be helpful.
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Normally I'd suggest heating it with a torch, but if you don't want to ruin the bearing, shaft or the gears you're going to have to be very careful with it. Do you have a heat gun? That would be safer.

Also, do you have any way of getting behind the bearing and putting force on the inner race?
 
Hit it with the Free All, which I use also, or make up a solution of 1/2 Trans fluid and 1/2 Acetone (taught to me by the old-timers at the MTA Bus Garage in Bensonhurst on my old Snap-On route) and let it soak overnight. Then place the opposite side of the spool shaft on a hard surface, then put a 1/2" open-end wrench on the bearing, making sure that you catch the inner race. Give the wrench a sharp wack or two with the handle-end of a large screwdriver or light "tap hammer" to drive the bearing downward, past the corrosion. Then take some Scothbrite pad and polish the shaft in the location which the the bearing was seated. Finally, just grab it with a pair of pliers and work it off the shaft. That's how I do it, and I've had PLENTY of experience with bearings frozen to spool shafts.

Or a small puller, as OB suggested.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.
Will pick up Free All on the way home and try that first.
I have a little space to get behind the bearing. As you can see in the pic. Small gear is still on shaft behind it. Heat gun as a back up plan.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.
Will pick up Free All on the way home and try that first.
I have a little space to get behind the bearing. As you can see in the pic. Small gear is still on shaft behind it. Heat gun as a back up plan.
this is a very common problem on the Newells. when I encounter this issue-if all other suggestions fail- you may need to use a Dremel with a cutting blade to cut through the bearing, being careful to not go so far through that you damage the shaft. once you get about 3/4 of the way through the bearing you can carefully break what's left of the bearing off using an old pair of dikes
 
you may need to use a Dremel with a cutting blade to cut through the bearing
Newells are particularly prone to this and I've fixed several this way. One multiple times.

The absolute worst are the crushed pinion bearings in the right side plate of AVET lever-draggers. I'm always VERY careful not to lock down the drags too tightly, as this is how those bearings get crushed and therefore jammed inside their cupped receptacle. Too common a problem when blackfishing.

These are the only reels that I refuse to work on for others, even though I have 4 of my own. I can normally get those bearings out, but it ain't easy and it definitely ain't fun. Two of my reels were modified many years ago to lessen this problem by Chris Martel, whose reel modding/blueprinting/Alutecnos prototyping machinist creds are pretty much a one-of-one talent. What was his handle on the old Noreast boards? Maybe "Tunatoys?" Hey, IYKYK.
 
Newells are particularly prone to this and I've fixed several this way. One multiple times.

The absolute worst are the crushed pinion bearings in the right side plate of AVET lever-draggers. I'm always VERY careful not to lock down the drags too tightly, as this is how those bearings get crushed and therefore jammed inside their cupped receptacle. Too common a problem when blackfishing.

These are the only reels that I refuse to work on for others, even though I have 4 of my own. I can normally get those bearings out, but it ain't easy and it definitely ain't fun. Two of my reels were modified many years ago to lessen this problem by Chris Martel, whose reel modding/blueprinting/Alutecnos prototyping machinist creds are pretty much a one-of-one talent. What was his handle on the old Noreast boards? Maybe "Tunatoys?" Hey, IYKYK.
Yes, “Tunatoys”. I believe he did a lot of work for Everol. I have an Everol proto-type reel he had a big hand in designing, and making. He had quite a machine shop is in basement. Last I heard he moved to Islamorada.
 
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Oh right, Everol not Alutecnos. I get all those boutique Euro-reels confused. In my head they tend to merge together under the heading “But why?” 🙄
 
Hit it with the Free All, which I use also, or make up a solution of 1/2 Trans fluid and 1/2 Acetone (taught to me by the old-timers at the MTA Bus Garage in Bensonhurst on my old Snap-On route) and let it soak overnight. Then place the opposite side of the spool shaft on a hard surface, then put a 1/2" open-end wrench on the bearing, making sure that you catch the inner race. Give the wrench a sharp wack or two with the handle-end of a large screwdriver or light "tap hammer" to drive the bearing downward, past the corrosion. Then take some Scothbrite pad and polish the shaft in the location which the the bearing was seated. Finally, just grab it with a pair of pliers and work it off the shaft. That's how I do it, and I've had PLENTY of experience with bearings frozen to spool shafts.

Or a small puller, as OB suggested.
I grew up down the block from that depot.
My friends and I probably pelted your truck and the buses with snowballs back in the day.(The early eighties). The block beteeen the depot and the bus lot was great for us. Not much car traffic, great for playing catch, touch football, wiffle ball.
It doesn’t seem like the bearing could go back. The tip is smaller in diameter then it’s wider behind the bearing. I do have it in transmission fluid/acetone solution right now and will worn on it tomorrow.
I am doing maintenance on my older reels first to get comfortable with the process before working on the newer ones with much more parts. Prior to opening up this Newell, I had success working on a Penn 965. Next reel is from the original Lep rod/reel combo that I bought for my father in the 2000’s. The Shimano TR-100-G.
 
Leave it to Lep to always find the right tool for the job. At less than $6 this one is the proverbial "no brainer". Ordering mine right now!

BTW, Pescadoo, I have 4 Shimano Triton 100G's that I have in use for my charter business for over 20 years. Great little reels that IMHO perform very admirably with only a thorough clean and re-greasing once a season.

Probably the weakest point is the level wind mechanism with the plastic pawl cap being a bit flimsy. But at around $2 each I just keep a supply handy. One other caution is to be careful of the tiny spacer that goes in-between the pawl and the cap. If you lose that spacer, the pawl will not catch the worm gear properly.

I also believe that Lep told, me there is an aftermarket metal cap you can buy if that becomes an issue for you. Perhaps he can refresh my memory.
 

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