Berkley X-9 in Flame Green

Leprechaun

Leprechaun

Kind of a Big Deal - In My Mind Anyway
Staff member
Hiya guys, just a quick heads-up. Looks like X-9 is becoming very popular, most of all with me! I like it just a bit more than my other fav braid, Sufix 832. A bit more body, better color retention and comes off a spinning reel with just the "proper" amount of "spring," while having good control over run-away spool unwind. You get what I'm saying. Plus it waaay over-tests, with 20lb's actual breaking strength around 37lbs. So you can go a bit lighter in pound test, while retaining excellent power. All the better to cut water resistance while jigging.

So locally, as far as I can tell, X-9 is only available in either low-viz dark green, or snow white. I prefer a very high-viz line, so to better maintain separation from my boat-mate's lines, as well as to assist in picking out tangles, should they occur.

Well, my never-ending research has found that Berkley does in fact offer a high-viz green version of their X-9, called "Jordan Lee X-9." And they offer it direct to us, via their website:

Jordan Lee x9 Braid - Berkley® Fishing US

Berkley® x9 Braid is a conventional braid using 100% PE fibers. 8-stranded braids are popular, and Berkley® x9 takes it to another level by adding an additional strand making x9 strong, reliable, and built to be smooth and cast effortlessly and far.
www.berkley-fishing.com www.berkley-fishing.com

I ordered in a spool of 20lb, for use on my soon to arrive Daiwa Ballistic LT 2500D, and it arrived Saturday from Berkley - very fast shipping, I would say. So if you, like me, would like to try X-9, but prefer a higher level of visibility, then don't hesitate to order it direct. I'm happy I did.

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Great line and I use it on numerous reels.I cant see quite like in my under 50 days so hi vis or the white has worked out well for me.The fish dont care as you will have mono or floro leader on anyway.The X-9 line does slice easier then Sufix when contacting the wreck or sharp hard bottom when comparing the same pound tests.I would have to believe that's due to its ultra thin diameter,thicker line has more material and will ultimately hold up better to nasty bottom.The 20 lb X-9 is thinner then Sufix 832 8 lb,thats thin.It defenitly allows you to hold with less weight which is always nice.It has become my line of choice for most applications these days.They have a winner with this product.
 
Here are some questions @Leprechaun
  1. How does the diameter compare with Suffix? I no longer care about breaking strength, but find that whatever line mimics the diameter of 8 lb test Stren mono is the minimum diameter I use on my spinning reels. It's the smallest line that these aged, fat fingers can tie a simple knot in when there are fish breaking around me, which means 30 lb Suffix.

  2. Is it available in 900 yd or greater spools? I don't do backing on my 4000 spinning reels, as there is a small, but real chance I can come upon a school of breaking football BFTs and I'd like that extra 2 seconds to fire up the boat in chase.
On my conventional reels, I usually go for whatever quality braid that I can score a 1200 yd spool of 65 lb test for ~ $100. For this application, most of the spinning necessary properties become "Who Cares?"
 
Roccus7 said:
Here are some questions @Leprechaun
  1. How does the diameter compare with Suffix? I no longer care about breaking strength, but find that whatever line mimics the diameter of 8 lb test Stren mono is the minimum diameter I use on my spinning reels. It's the smallest line that these aged, fat fingers can tie a simple knot in when there are fish breaking around me, which means 30 lb Suffix.

  2. Is it available in 900 yd or greater spools? I don't do backing on my 4000 spinning reels, as there is a small, but real chance I can come upon a school of breaking football BFTs and I'd like that extra 2 seconds to fire up the boat in chase.
On my conventional reels, I usually go for whatever quality braid that I can score a 1200 yd spool of 65 lb test for ~ $100. For this application, most of the spinning necessary properties become "Who Cares?"
Click to expand...
Your answer to the diameter questions is in my post right above yours.It is much thinner then Sufix 832.You will have to use 40-50 lb X-9 braid to be close to stren 8 lb diameter.Its available in 328 yard then goes up to 2188 yard spools.I don't ever recall seeing a 600 or 1200 yard size like Sufix.
 
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Togilator said:
Your answer to the diameter questions is in my post right above yours in detail.It is much thinner then Sufix 832.Yes its available in 328 yard then goes up to 2188 yard spools.I don't ever recall seeing a 600 or 1200 yard size like Sufix.
Click to expand...
I did read you post, but it seemed vague, is the 20 lb X-9 thinner than Suffix 8 lb, which is how it can be read, or is it thinner than Stren 8 lb mono which is my exact question? If that's the case, which strength of X-9 is as thick or a tad thicker than Stren 8 lb? The 30 lb Suffix is just about the same diameter as 8 lb Stren so that's become my line choice.

Nothing between 328 and 2200 yds? I love inventory, but I'd have to hock something to spring for a 2200 yd spool...
 
Roccus7 said:
I did read you post, but it seemed vague, is the 20 lb X-9 thinner than Suffix 8 lb, which is how it can be read, or is it thinner than Stren 8 lb mono which is my exact question? If that's the case, which strength of X-9 is as thick or a tad thicker than Stren 8 lb? The 30 lb Suffix is just about the same diameter as 8 lb Stren so that's become my line choice.

Nothing between 328 and 2200 yds? I love inventory, but I'd have to hock something to spring for a 2200 yd spool...
Click to expand...
20 LB X-9 braid is thinner then Sufix 8 lb 832 braid.Hope that clears things up.If Stren 8 lb mono is aproximately (DEPEND WHICH STREN) .010 to .011 inch it appears you will need 40 OR 50 LB Berkley X-9 to equal similar diameter of the stren mono.This should allow you to put the heat to those football bluefins if needed.
 
Roccus7 - did you go to the link I provided? The diameter of the X-9 pound tests is listed on it. Berkley compares their 20lb X-9 to some generic 8lb mono. No idea which one. From what I recall of my "old pre-braid" days, even Berkley's own mono diameters varied, depending on which you chose. As far as the diameter of whatever version of Stren mono you are comparing this line to, that I have no idea.

Let me give you some of my professional background - for context. I live and work in the world of precise measuring. This is what I do. My company is the factory-authorized distributor of Nikon microscopy, covering Lower NY and all of NJ. Among our products are some of the most optically accurate measuring tools available to science and manufacturing.

Some years ago, when I cared enough to further investigate, I measured some random line diameters, using our non-contact optical microscopy. I found that NOT A SINGLE LINE measured to what the manufacturer stated. All were over the specified diameter - and I included several different monos and braids in that exercise.

Additionally, if the stated line diameter of any of the manufacturers has been measured using some type of contact tool, such as a micrometer or even the less accurate Vernier caliper, then there will have to be some compression of the braid structure itself. This will obviously give a deceptively different diameter measurement, in almost all cases measuring out thinner than a non-compressed sample, straight off the spool.

So bottom line, since I found the manufacturers to be a little full of it, I use my eyes and sometimes my sense of touch now to tell me which is thinner. Good enough for me. If you want a truly thin line, then a JDM Gosen line, one version or another, is what you want - as described in another post on this board.

But just keep in mind that the Japanese measure and sell their lines by MAX breaking strength, while here in the good old USA the manufacturers, even the SAME manufacturers in some cases, use MINIMUM breaking strength as their stated pound test.

So "20lb" X-9 actually breaks at 37lbs. Here in the USA that is. In Japan, that would be classed as 35lb test - maybe carrying a "PE" rating of 2 or possibly even 2.5. This is why you are correct in using diameter as your purchasing parameter.

In my case I can see that X-9 so-called "20lb" is physically a bit thinner than 832's so-called "20lb" test. Good enough for my fluke and lighter black fishing needs. Either line makes my own "best for me" category. I just like the X-9 a bit better, for reasons that you don't consider as relevant as I do. To each his own. I'm sure we will both catch some fishies this coming season - no matter which line we use.
 
Thanks @Leprechaun & @Togilator. Interesting that the X-9 20 lb is really > 30 lb. Just reinforces my, "I don't really give a flying F at rolling donut what the breaking strength is as long as I can knot it and it behaves in my usage" approach to braid choice for my spinning reels.

Kind of nuts that their breaking strength is way over label claim. I see that as more of a negative. Based on your observations to date Lep, shouldn't you be comparing the X-9 to the 30 lb Suffix? Seems more of an apples to apples comparison, that is of course, if the Suffix breaking strength is close to label claim.

I'll probably try some X-9 when I find it in a more appropriate bulk size to see if the "spring" property Lep commented about is superior to Suffix for my applications.

My experience with all braids when used for daily tossing lures on spinning reels has guided me to into the following protocols to avoid the plague of wind knots:
  1. After spooling the reel, no matter how carefully it was done, hop in the boat, pay out 200 yds of bare line, and troll around for 15 min before retrieving. Now it's ready to use.

  2. Once every 2-3 weeks, repeat step 1 for all the "active" spinning rods. "Active" means the ones that have been used daily for over an hour during that time interval. Yeah, it really sucks having to fish every day during the season, but that's the sacred duty of a retiree. It's a dirty job, but someone has to do it.

  3. When, not if, you get a doozy of a wind knot that you're hell bent to untie instead of cutting out, grab that tube of Chapstick you have onboard and cream up the knot. It enables you to give the knot a good pull and often successfully clear the tangle.
 
"Based on your observations to date Lep, shouldn't you be comparing the X-9 to the 30 lb Suffix?"

Well. so the rub is that 20lb Sufix 832 also over-tests, which I used to know that exact amount, but now I forget - the curse of an also close-to-retirement-age brain.

So for my purposes, comparing rated pound test to rated pound test is more relevant. Based on tons of hours of fluking over structure and the loss of more tons of rigs, I have found that using 40lb Berkley Big Game for my rigs and 20lb 832 for my main line (spinning and bait casting reels), my rig will ALWAYS break at one of its knots before my main line.

Usually its the dropper knot that lets go, but occasionally its the bottom surgeon's loop that holds my bucktail. I find this to be the case with either 832 or the newer X-9. Both are stronger than the knots I use to make up my B/S rigs.

So this is really what I look for in the "strength" category - will my line be strong enough to pull free from snags while drifting over structure? Or more likely, will it be strong enough to resist breaking before my rig breaks? Both lines pass that test.

Given the equality of that particular result, and because I feel that X-9 has some other significant advantages, per my posts above, I've been slowly switching my new-line purchases over to it.
 
@Leprechaun, yup dropper loop is just about the weakest knot any of us use on our rigs. Even on 80 lb mono leaders, it gives before the 50 or 65 lb braid on my groundfish reels.

While I'm in the river catching schoolies, breaking strength is of no concern. It only gets me thinking when I'm outside casting towards the ledges...
 
". . . yup dropper loop is just about the weakest knot any of us use on our rigs."

For sure. But better to break-off there than half-way up my running line. I' take that trade-off evey day of the week, even Sundays.
 
One other point Roccus - wind knots used to annoy me as well. But using the following protocols (and the lines I mentioned as my on choices), I honestly have not experienced a wind knot in quite a few seasons -

a/ I always try to underfill my spinners by a wee amount. Usually I go to about an 1/8' from the lip of the top of the spool. Seems to do the trick.

b/ I NEVER use the "Auto Close" feature of a spinning reel. I close the bail manually. I find that the auto feature will either put the first coil on the spool too loosely, or it will cause the line to completely miss the spool, usually by winding that first loop over the top of the spool and partially around the drag knob. If you don't see this screw-up and wind in your line with that first loop still misplaced, a wind knot is a very likely result. This issue can be exacerbated by using a too limp line on a spinner, one that just drapes over the spool, just prior to closing the bail.

c/ Using 832 and especially X-9 tends to negate this last issue - at least in my experience.
 
Just ordered a spool of 20lb, I also wanted to try the 30lb but they had no small spools of the 30lb.
Will post here and compare it to the Daiwa Samurai I have been using when I get it. ?
 
Good points @Leprechaun, but I don't always abide by them since they're usually in direct conflict with my MO; I'm constantly casting and retrieving lures.

  • I knowingly overfill the initial season line fill so I don't fret if I get a killer wind knot or wish I hadn't overfilled later in the season in August as the clipping off a few feet of worn line few times a week starts to noticeably impact cast distance.

  • As you stated autobail closure is the root of many a wind knot, BUT since I just about exclusively use poppers, I want that popper moving the instant it touches the water. To further complicate matters, I use poppers that don't float so I must get the popper up "on plain" instantaneously, otherwise I'm using up 10 or so feet of the retrieve just to get the popper where it belongs.

    When my plug is 1' above the water surface I start reeling and popping, a 2-handed operation that is in direct conflict with stopping to manually flipping the bail and making sure there's no spool loop. At least the initiation of retrieve prior to hitting the water does ensure that tension on the line, so no loop over the top of the spool, but there is always the extra twist using the autobail. The number of hits the instant the plug touches the water is significant. This is why I untwist my line on a regular schedule all season long instead of manually flipping the bail.

    When I toss swimmer plugs I still use the autobail, BUT before I start cranking, I'll strip off a foot or two of the line and retrieve that under pressure to help with twist and avoid the over the spool loop. Years of night fishing with Redfins taught me to do this.
Yeah, I do go through a few bail springs a season. AAMOF I wore out a rotor on a Penn Sargus because an aluminum tab, critical to bail function that was cast into the rotor, had disintegrated due to metal fatigue triggered by constant use.
 
Lep that's very interesting what you say about line diameter and measuring.I have no doubt manufacturers are a bit over zealous on the diameters and stretch the truth because who is going to hold them responsible.Im guessing when you measured the lines they were thicker then stated???
Im sure the X-9 is not as thin as they state but its defenitly thinner then Sufix and I can see that with my poor eyes and touch of the hand.Over the years I have tried some of the Japanese JDM braids,they were not cheap and some of them were so thin they just didn't hold up well to dogfish and if it touched anything like the keel or such.You could hold with a lot less weight then everyone else though,Just don't get in a tangle as you could barely see the line.A few were pretty good in the heavier tests as they were thick enough too see.The JDM Daiwa Saltiga 12 braid that is still on my Saltigas has served me well togging and ground fish jigging in PE-2.5 44 lb,PE-3 55lb and PE-4 68 lb tests.Just too darn expensive though and I have found the X-9 is a great alternative,just as good and about as thin as I want to go in a braid.
 
Yes Rob, every line I measured exceeded the stated diameter. All the manufacturers were full of it. Every one of them.

As far as JDM braid products, I don't have much experience - other than the Gosen braid I loaded on my Daiwa Catalina 100TW. That stuff, in 20lb is like spider floss, as I showed in that earlier thread. I can't speak to dogfish abrasions or keel-rubbing as that never happened, but I can definitely say that its still very strong.

I had to deal with several snag-ups and it pulled free as well as any USDM braid. On those occasions that I couldn't break my rig free, the rig's dropper broke just below the knot, same as with 832 and X-9. I really like this particular braid - but I bet you're right about abrasion resistance.
 
Leprechaun said:
Yes Rob, every line I measured exceeded the stated diameter. All the manufacturers were full of it. Every one of them.

As far as JDM braid products, I don't have much experience - other than the Gosen braid I loaded on my Daiwa Catalina 100TW. That stuff, in 20lb is like spider floss, as I showed in that earlier thread. I can't speak to dogfish abrasions or keel-rubbing as that never happened, but I can definitely say that its still very strong.

I had to deal with several snag-ups and it pulled free as well as any USDM braid. On those occasions that I couldn't break my rig free, the rig's dropper broke just below the knot, same as with 832 and X-9. I really like this particular braid - but I bet you're right about abrasion resistance.
Click to expand...
Any one company that's carrying a heavier diper load than the others, or were they all about the same?
 

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