Braided line suggestions

Robinos

Robinos

New Angler
Merry Christmas all. A friend and I are getting ready to restring our reels. We both basically have two rod reel combinations we use. I’m finding a lot of brands, colors and weights available. We mostly only go saltwater fishing for as small as porgys and as large as stripped bass. Do you have any recommendations?
 
Hello im sure answers on this will differ but here is what I use. If i had 2 set up 1 lighter and i heavier i would go with Suffix 832 20lb on the light set up and 40 on the heavier. Ive found breaking point on both are more and youll break the leader way more than the braid itself. Just like the way the 832 feels and holds knots. Ive tried power pro and power pro slick 8 as well as daiwa jbraid and changed back after a few trips to the 832.
 
I've always used Power Pro. I've never had problems with it. I konw many people that like the Suffix 832. I use 10# for bucktailing fluke in the sound and bays, 20# in the ocean with heavier weights. 30# for tog and striped bass. I like to use yellow and white.
 
crabby said:
I've always used Power Pro. I've never had problems with it. I konw many people that like the Suffix 832. I use 10# for bucktailing fluke in the sound and bays, 20# in the ocean with heavier weights. 30# for tog and striped bass. I like to use yellow and white.
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Awesome thank you. If we were to go with 30# should we match the weight of the mono underneath??
 
I don't. I usually use 20#. I don't think I've ever reached the backing while fishing. If I get to the point where I'm getting close it's time for new line.
 
Robinos said:
Awesome thank you. If we were to go with 30# should we match the weight of the mono underneath??
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You have the leader to your bucktail on my 20lb 832 i use 30lb berkley big game. You also have backing which is the mono on the spool itself that can be less than the braid as that is used so the braid has something to grab onto instead of the reel spool. If using 3olb braid you can use 20lb mono .
 
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My "negative adventures" with the original PP were well documented on the old site, so no need to plow that ground again. I have tried the newer PP Super Slick 8, and while it never produced a "mystery break," it did tend to fray a bit after two seasons, even when used with high-end Fuji SIC guides. So that was a fail for me. Maybe the new Super Slick 8 V.2 will be better. I wouldn't know because. . .

I've moved on to Sufix 832 and couldn't be happier. Never a single issue in five seasons of pretty hard usage. 20lb for ocean fluking and 40lb for togging the South Shore reefs and deep bottom - stuff is GREAT! Check out the new "Coastal Camo" blue. A slightly softer outer coating that breaks in beautifully during the initial trip's use.

Edit: I did try PP Max Cuatro in 40lb on one of my tog setups this Fall. it worked well, though a bit noisy thru the guides. An acceptable sub for 832, I guess.
 
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Interesting topic that I'd like to weigh in on...

I've been "testing" braided lines since the day I got hooked using Power Pro for the first time back in 2001. It was a life-changing experience to feel how the no-stretch braid helped me to hook those elusive BIG PIGS in a way that 40# pink Ande monofilament simply couldn't (NOT knocking Ande at all). Over the course of the last 17 years I've evolved and continue to find myself "experimenting" and finding new products that I feel suit how & where I'm fishing.

I'll readily admit that I no longer "target" many of the species of fish that I did in the past, for various reasons. Those being bluefish, porgies, sea bass, weakfish & cod. Yes, I've basically fine-tuned my fishing habits to include tautog, bass & fluke. This could be the topic of a NEW thread :unsure:

Here's how it breaks down:

Bass chunking & live lining: Cortland Spectron (Black Spot) 35# / Suffix 832 (neon green & blue camo) 30#
Traditional Tog Rigs: Cortland Spectron (Black Spot) 35# / Suffix 832 (neon green) / Kast King (blue) 30#
Tog Jigging: Suffix 832 (neon green) 30#
Fluke with Live Bait: Kast King (blue & yellow) 20# / Suffix 832 (neon green & camo blue) 20#
Fluke Jigging: Cortland Master Braid (yellow) 8, 10 & 15# / Kast King (blue & yellow) 10, 15# / Suffix 832 neon (green & camo blue) 10, 20#

I'm sure if you ask me in five years what braided lines I'm using, some of those choices will have changed. It evolves and will continue to do so based on the quality of line(s) that are introduced to the market.
 
When braided line first came on the scene I also started with the original Power Pro and it seemed OK for the first couple of years. Then I began to experience some of the mystery break offs Pete refers to and I switched to the Suffix 832 and never had a problem since. I have also enjoyed excellent performance from a spool of 30# Momoi's Diamond braid. Been on my Tog stick for the last 2 seasons and has been perfect. I am anxious to try the new Suffix Camo Blue. It's about time I replaced my 2 year old Tog line, just in case.

I have been using the 20# Suffix Black/White Camo on my Fluke jigger and it has also been terrific. Finally the Suffix 20# Ghost is loaded on my 3000 series Stradic/Batson spinning combo. It does a great job on Porgy, Fluke bucktailing, and even Tog on the shallow spots. I find a good contrasting or high visibility braid is essential when Fluke bucktailing and casting uptide. The Sea Green or Black colors are very hard to see against the backdrop of the water when following the light jigs to the bottom.
 
I'll chime in, Suffix 832 on my spinning reels and Power Pro on the coventionals. Reason for both, $$. I completely spool w/braid, especially on my conventional which are used for groundfishing. I do have a chance for hooking into a BFT around here so I don't want to have backing.
 
I use sufix 832, power pro super 8 slick and spiderwire, all have been good to me, although I know for sure that spiderwire is really underrated as far as strength, I got hooked up in the rocks while fishing deep water for fluke in R.I., was using 30lb clear/white spider wire, I was using 50lb fluro leader, the leader broke before the line did, the mate was amazed how my lep stick was bent over and was waiting for it to snap, I leveled the pole so the line was pulling directly off the reel, locked it down and snap it broke loose, I no longer use the lep sticks anymore, they were good at the time.
 
I've been using Daiwa J Braid x8 for the past few seasons...zero complaints: cheap, readily available, soft/limp braid that behaves on both casting and spinning gear.

This season I'll be testing out the new "Grand" J braid...supposedly an improved version.

There's also a couple of sinking braids on the JDM market I might play around with, esp in freshwater. YGK Soul is one, the other escapes me.
 
Just curious... do most of you pick your braid and spool it yourself, buy a package and have a shop spool it and charge you accordingly, or just have the shop spool you from their Big spools of whatever they have in stock?? I have to admit that I'm guilty of just going to my local B&T and picking what lb I want and they use whatever spool they have on hand....
 
Chinacat said:
Just curious... do most of you pick your braid and spool it yourself, buy a package and have a shop spool it and charge you accordingly, or just have the shop spool you from their Big spools of whatever they have in stock?? I have to admit that I'm guilty of just going to my local B&T and picking what lb I want and they use whatever spool they have on hand....
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China, I usually bring the reel im having spooled get my suffix 832 there and have them spool it. Ive never been charges extra for spooling when i purchased it there. I would watch what they are putting on your reel some stuff is not that great. I use suffix 832 just like the way it feels and keeps knots. You can look back on the topic and see what other guys use.
 
Chinacat said:
Just curious... do most of you pick your braid and spool it yourself, buy a package and have a shop spool it and charge you accordingly, or just have the shop spool you from their Big spools of whatever they have in stock?? I have to admit that I'm guilty of just going to my local B&T and picking what lb I want and they use whatever spool they have on hand....
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Since I insist on not having backing, have many 113Hs, and the nearest "local" Tackle Shop is an 80 mile round trip, I shop on-line for the best prices and spool myself.
 
buddha162 said:
What's the thought process behind no backing? Just curious.
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I go ground fishing in an area that could mean a hookup with a bluefin tuna. I need some time to fireup the boat and chase the sucker before it strips me so the smaller diameter of braid vs. backing, gives me more of a safety net.
 
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