Now It's Cape Fear's Turn For Some Corrective Surgery

Leprechaun

Kind of a Big Deal - In My Mind Anyway
Staff member
Here We Go Again

Building from my past experience replacing a heavy fluker's rod grips from the rear - as documented in an earlier thread, I've put in a fair amount of time considering another, similar make-over. But this one will be far more difficult, and I'm not entirely convinced that it will turn out to the same level of quality and satisfaction.

But nothing ventured, nothing gained, and so this time I am tackling a Cape Fear rod that I've never quite "taken to." For those that are unfamiliar with this company's products, back in the late '90's Cape Fear was a well-regarded "boutique" brand that pioneered, perfected and produced 6-sided rod blanks (and complete rods); constructed of unidirectional high-modulus graphite "wedges," bonded together at the edges and center. Building in this manner what they created was a very strong blank, albeit just a touch heavier in weight than a typical high modulus tubular blank - which is only to be expected, despite the advanced carbon sheets that they used. Ehh, ya gotta give to get in this world. Trade-offs, its always a question of trade-offs.

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In order to artificially create a "spine," they blended some S-glass into one of the panels. This panel was meant to carry the guide set.

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Cape Fear was a fairly popular esoteric manufacturer right up until the second Gulf War - when the type of graphite they required became scarce, due to war-time aerospace needs, or so I'm told. They ran thru their remaining inventory of the raw graphite, then tried other grades and types of graphite - with less than satisfactory results. And so, after a couple years, that was that, they went under.

Anyway, my particular rod started life as a factory built model # ADV174-70C, and though I liked it well enough, I always felt that the rear handle was too short and the guide set was not in keeping with a list price in the mid-$300's. That was a TON of money for a "factory" rod back then; even one as techy as this one. Additionally, it always felt a bit tip-heavy, which for me was the main reason I never bonded with it. I did occasionally take it deep fluking and Bay clam chumming, mounting a proper bait caster, but it was always one of the last rods I reached for when heading out.

So back when Capt, Neil was still building rods, we stripped the "less-than-Fuji" factory guide set, took a inch or so off the tip to "tighten" it up a bit, and added a few inches to the rear cork butt. It was A LOT of work for Neil, as wrapping a blank like this was bad enough , what with the guide thread not wanting to snug tightly on the hex blank without gaps.

Worse still, the guide wraps' epoxy finish also proved problematic, refusing to lay evenly while rotating in his rod dryer - as it tended to migrate to the 6 "high points" of the blank. I do not know what he did to get it to flatten properly, but whatever it was, it worked, and he delivered the rod back to me, ready to go.

Yeah, great, except I still couldn't bond with it. Still a wee bit tip heavy, and I had other rods that I just flat out liked more for the apps that this rod would fill. So it's been sitting in its rack in my basement for a least 15 seasons, waiting for the day that I either took another shot at "fixing" it, or maybe just selling it off - as there appears to be a substantial market for customs built on the original CF Hextech blanks.

Most that know me well will tell you that I'm not one to sell anything. I'm kind of a fishing gear pack rack. So it was just a matter of time 'til I got around to this project. And now is that time.

If you want to read a bit on the Cape Fear technology and lineup - check out this article, borrowed with respect from Tacktour.com:

Cape Fear Rods - Technical Bass Hextek Technology

End Part One - plenty more on tap.
 
Back to the Stripper Pole

Prior to commencing work, I spent a good amount of time contemplating the potential issues associated with this refurb. This blank is really quite large at its base, with a rapidly diminishing physical taper as one moves toward the tip. This will definitely create a problem opening up the fore and rear handle grips, so to slide them up from the bottom. I have to really look at what's available out there.

As of right now I do not think that the Winn Grips that I used for the prior rod can be reamed open enough to permit slipping them up from the rear without tearing them apart. The blank's backside is a full 0.770 inches across and so I need to really do some homework on the inner diameter of the available "pre-formed" EVA grips. I greatly prefer to use pre-formed ones because I do not own a rod wrapping rack, which is normally used to sand/contour grips to shape. I need to purchase them close to optimally formed right off, and have the "right" inside diameter. Research will begin shortly.

Additionally, I need to find a way to reduce the tip-tilt of the blank once finished. There are certain methods to accomplish it, but the trick is to do it without adding significantly to the completed rod's overall weight.

Meantime, nothing happens until the old handle assembly is removed from the blank. I'm not gonna go into the detail that I did in that earlier thread, but I will put up some representative pix as I progress.

First, the reel seat removal. Mr. Dremel's invention and a Snap-on #6 flat screwdriver are more than a match for this job. Just gotta be careful with the Dremel's little carbide cutoff wheel. This blank has much more "diameter" than the last Batson I did. Cut into the blank and its ova'.

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Insert the screwdriver in the groove and twist. Off it came.

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It's obvious that Cape Fear was not shy about using the proper amount of epoxy under the reel seat.

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Next, the foregrip has to go. Same procedure as before, utilizing my trusty Ginsu knife (which I have laboriously sharpened with my Dremel).

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Once the fore and aft cork grips were removed from the blank, it was time to get out the heat gun, soften the reel seat's epoxy and cut that off as well.

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Unfortunately, the very nice butt wrap that Neil put on the rod during its first makeover had to go, because I intend to move the new reel seats' position up to where that butt wrap resides.

The beautiful butt wrapp is now gonzo. Next it was sanding time. A bit of an exacting job, as the idea is to sand off most all of the factory epoxy remnants, while not hitting the sharp hex corners. This would substantially weaken the blank, as that's where the six panels are bonded together. Using my trusty Harbor Freight detail sander (it still will not die!), a fine finishing sanding block, followed by an acetone wipe; and we're where we need to be to begin the rebuild process. I left a bit of the old epoxy on the blank - no need to really lean into it, as its already more than flat enough to accept the new handle components.

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Now, off to the interwebs for my due diligence locating some proper components to finish the job. I hope I can find what I need in grips that will slide up the blank, despite the 6 pointy joints. We shall see.
 
Back to the Stripper Pole

Before I got started, I spent a good amount of time considering the potential issues associated with this refurb. This blank is really quite large at its base, which will create a problem opening up the fore and rear handle grips, so to slide them up from the bottom. I have to really look at what's available out there.

As of right now I do not think that the Winn Grips that I used for the prior rod can be reamed open enough to permit slipping them up from the rear without tearing them apart. That rear butt is a full 0.770 inches and so I need to really do some homework on "pre-formed" grips. This because I do not own a rod wrapping rack, which is normally used to sand/shape grips to shape. I need them close to optimally formed right off. Research will begin shortly.

Additionally, I need to find a way to reduce the tip-tilt of the blank once finished. There are certain methods to do that, but the trick is to do it without adding significantly to the completed rod's overall weight.

Meantime, nothing happens until the old handle assembly is stripped from the blank. I'm not gonna go into the details that I did in that earlier post, but I will put up some representative pix as I progress.

First, the reel seat removal. Mr. Dremel's invention and a Snap-on #6 flat screwdriver do a fine job. Gotta be careful with the Dremel's carbide cutoff wheel. This blank has much more "diameter" than the last one I did. Cut into the blank and its ova'.

View attachment 74472

View attachment 74473

View attachment 74474

View attachment 74475

Insert and twist and off it came.

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Next, the foregrip has to go. Same procedure as before, Ginsu knife (which I have laboriously sharpened with my Dremel - no small job).

View attachment 74470

Once the fore and aft cork grips were removed from the blank, it was time to get out the heat gun, soften the reel seat's epoxy and cut that off as well.

View attachment 74480

Unfortunately, the very nice butt wrap that Neil put on the rod during its first makeover had to go as well, because I intend to move the new reel seat's position up to where that butt wrap resides.

Gonso now. Next it was sanding time. A bit of an exacting job, as the idea is to sand off most all of the factory epoxy remnants, while not hitting the sharp hex corners. This would substantially weaken the blank, as that's where the six panels are bonded together. Using my trusty Harbor Freight detail sander (it still will not die!), a fine finishing sanding block and an acetone wipe; and we're where we need to be, to begin the rebuild process. I left a bit of the old epoxy on the blank - no need to really lean into it, as its already more than flat enough to accept the new handle components.

View attachment 74483

Now, off to the interwebs for my due diligence locating some proper components to finish the job. I hope I can find what I need in grips that will slide up the blank, despite the 6 pointy joints. We shall see.
Lep,
I would serious consider removing the guides and putting the components on from the top. Especially with cork your`e going to have issues putting the cork grips on from the bottom up,given the OD of the butt end, I know it`s a hassle removing the guides,especially if its a custom wrap. It`s a long winter. Take your time.
 
Hi FP, thanks for your thoughts. Like I said, lacking a rod wrapping rack, manual or powered, would be the major problem in stripping the guides and redoing them. Not to mention how difficult it is to properly apply the thread and epoxy coating to the guides on these blanks - these two issues make removing the guides an unappetizing non-starter. Besides, my friend Capt. Neil wrapped those guides, and he ain't wrapping any more. And so I do feel that I'd prefer to keep some part of him in this stick.

I'll figure out a way to do this job, that's for sure. One thing that can't be on the agenda is replacing the old cork grips with new cork grips. They would certainly crack trying getting them over the rear of this blank, because there is not enough "give" to cork. Not in the way EVA can be expanded/stretched. And even if I do ream cork grips to 0.770", they will require too much arbor under them in their final location. Nah, n/g.

Besides all that, at 68 years old now it's just too cold to start on the heavy boat work that the Lep requires this Spring. And so, as in the rod rebuild job that I did last year around this time, a project like this is a means to keep myself occupied in a fishing-related project, until it's time to cut the shrink wrap off the boat. Then the REAL fun starts. Big work ahead. Ugggh.
 
If you want to keep capt Neil’s butt wrap why don’t you extend the butt of the rod with an old piece of rod epoxied inside of the butt.You can then cut to suit
 
Couldn’t because the rod blank is too long already. I’m shooting for a finished length around 6’5” and she’s 6’9” now. No way to take that much length off the tip, because it’ll turn the blank into a pool cue. Add in the extra long jigging butt length I prefer and the butt wrap had to go. Also, can’t extend these rare blanks by sticking an extension up its butt. The inner “honeycomb” is what gives them a good part of their strength. An extension has to be on the outside of the blank, not inside. Besides, I already cut off the extension Neil and I put on it years ago. Gonna get into all of that in my next posts. Trust the vision and plan.
 
I owned 5 of those rods at one point, all customs .Every builder that did the work hated me for bringing them a cape fear blank. Billy Vivona wanted nothing to do with it until I pissed him off by saying, I thought there was nothing you couldn't do with a rod? I thought you were the wizard and could wrap any rod.? He put a beautiful scales wrap on it that still loooks incredible today. I Still have that rod and one other. Obviously you want cork but why don't you replace the cork with EVA? It would be far easier to do from the rear. I'm no expert but I think you can use the tool that's used for putting golf grips on from the rear if using EVA .Neil did this for me once on a G Loomis factory rod that he moved the reel seat forward. Anyway just a thought ,you will always get some questions when walking on any boat with a cape fear rod. I enjoy the 2 I have left but they are definitely heavier than what's available today. You have a piece of history there, Good luck with the project!
 
Hiya Rob, hope you're having a great 2024. No, I really don't want cork anywhere near any of my rods, never really cared for it, never will. Not to mention the cork of today is a shadow of what we could get just 10 years ago. Even so-called Super and Fluor grades are way down in quality. Nope, this rod will be getting EVA or some other synthetic grip material. I'm working on it.

And I agree, any Cape Fear rod is so nichey that most have never actually seen one. I have another much, much heavier one that I had built for small boat cod and tile fishing. A type of fishing that I never actually got to do with my current boat. That was money well-spent.

It would probably make a nice small tuna chunking rod. Again, something that I'll probably never do. Funny how things turn out in life.
 
Hiya Rob, hope you're having a great 2024. No, I really don't want cork anywhere near any of my rods, never really cared for it, never will. Not to mention the cork of today is a shadow of what we could get even 10 years ago. Even so-called Super and Fluor grades are way down in quality. Nope, this rod will be getting EVA or some other synthetic grip material. I'm working on it.

And I agree, any Cape Fear rod is so nichey that most have never actually seen one. I have another much, much heavier one that I had built for small boat cod and tile fishing. A type of fishing that I never actually got to do with my current boat. That was money well-spent.

It would probably make a nice small tuna chunking rod. Again, something that I'll probably never do. Funny how things turn out in life.
Being even more of a dinosaur, I have seen a Cape Fear in the hands of one or two anglers but many, many years ago. Since you mentioned owning that other blank made for small boat Cod fishing, I am trying to recall if one of the Cape Fear rods I saw was yours on one of the Cod trips aboard my boat. Am I correct?
 
Being even more of a dinosaur, I have seen a Cape Fear in the hands of one or two anglers but many, many years ago. Since you mentioned owning that other blank made for small boat Cod fishing, I am trying to recall if one of the Cape Fear rods I saw was yours on one of the Cod trips aboard my boat. Am I correct?
You probably saw mine as well, back when we did that exceptional Block Island Summer cod trip on your boat with JC, Billy Pro and Captain JP. That was a great trip. Probably saw it on Paul Brunos boat cod fishing as well.
 
You probably saw mine as well, back when we did that exceptional Block Island Summer cod trip on your boat with JC, Billy Pro and Captain JP. That was a great trip. Probably saw it on Paul Brunos boat cod fishing as well.
Thanks, Pete, and Rob. I guess I still have a few brain cells left!!:ROFLMAO:

BTW, Rob, although I have made many summer Cod trips over the years, that was indeed one of my favorite days.
 
Thanks, Pete, and Rob. I guess I still have a few brain cells left!!:ROFLMAO:

BTW, Rob, although I have made many summer Cod trips over the years, that was indeed one of my favorite days.
Ugh........summer cod. Those were the days.

Lep, I've worked with that blank before. All I can say is good luck trying to make chicken shite into chicken salad!
 
Moving Right Along - Sort Of

My component order arrived from Mudhole this morning. Yeaah!

But of course, a slight problem. The winding check above the foregrip is much too large, leaving too wide of a space between it and the blank to have it look proper. Booo!

So, I ordered in a slightly smaller one (as part of a mixed-size kit) to better fit the rod.

Meantime, did a rough fitting of the new handle parts, which included opening up the EVA grips slightly with my Mudhole reamer, so to fit them over the fat-ass butt of the blank.

For the reel seat I selected a "palming" version from American Tackle, in size 18, which is a brandy-new model for them. I would have gone with Fuji - always my first choice, except the Fuji model of this size seat has an cut-away open bottom, so to feel the bare blank with your fingers. I have no idea how this would work out with a 6-sided blank, and so I passed on the Fuji and went with the AmTak, which features a fully closed tube. It seems pretty stout, so I doubt it gives away any toughness to its Fuji look-alike.

Turns out it was ridiculously over-length. What reel did Amtak think would be sitting in it, a 9/0 Senator? After fitting the intended reel, in this case my Daiwa Pluton 200H (and/or my Catalina baitcaster), I found I could take better than an inch off it - which required some careful cutting with my cute little Harbor Freight detail saw. Huh, how about that? I finally found a use for it. I tend to acquire tools that look useful, but rarely are. This, I suppose, is a result of too many years driving around in a Snap-on truck. If you don't like tools, Snap-on's just not the proper career choice for ya, that's for sure.

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Anyway, this cut is a bit tougher than it sounds, as it must be a precise 90-deg square to the centerline of the tube. Of course, doing it free-hand I was off a squinch - but nothing a little judicious sanding couldn't fix.

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I also took an inch or so off the blank's butt, to get to my targeted 6'5" overall length.

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Everything appears to line up nicely, other than the dopey top winding check, which will put the job on hold 'til next weekend in all probability. Oh well. This is not the worst of issues, as it gives me time to think on adjusting the length of each of the EVA grips. I've already cut the foregrip by a half inch or so, and that rear grip could use an bit of an adjustment as well. Just a matter of how much I end up cutting it.

I'm not sure what I'll do about putting a fresh decorative thread wind above the new handle assembly. I may borrow a buddy's manual rod-wrapping setup and do it myself. It ain’t brain surgery, if you keep it fairly simple. Or maybe have Bobby at Causeway put something decent on it. Or maybe another of my rod-builder friends will do it for me. Soon enough. I've got nothing but time. In any case, next comes the finally fitting and the glue-up.
 
Back At It

Today I had two available fishing-related choices. Either head for the Freeport Show, or work on my Cape Fear project. This one was easy, as Freeport hasn't been a productive use of my time for several years now. In the past my fishing buddies would all meet up at the show, do the walk-around, and then head over to the Pastrami King, close by in Merrick, for a really super luncheon.

Well, Pastrami King is now gonzo, and the Show as a stand-alone destination is not really a worthwhile use of my time, in my opinion of course. Its a shame that they let it deteriorate to this point. It wasn't always so. Some aggressive marketing would probably help. I think so, anyway.

So back to the garage to continue to bring this rod back from irrelevance. The winding check kit arrived earlier this week, and a trial fit of one of the larger ones up over the butt went smoothly. A fresh 3-arbor tape wrap for the foregrip, and ready for the epoxy.

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Some painter's tape over the grip and good to go. Slathered the epoxy onto and between the arbors and it slid right into position. Pushed down the new winding check, secured it with a little bit of the adhesive, and done.

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Next up the reel seat - which presented no problem at all - first, a roughing of its interior with the reamer to kill the smoothness, so to give it some “tooth” for the epoxy to grab. Then back to the formula: tape arbors, slathered it up, a twist to distribute the adhesive inside, and a final push into position.

The only potential issue here would be mis-aligning it relative to the guides. This is always a bit difficult for me, as my mid-distance vision is currently nothing to write home about. Luckily, this seat has a very fine seam down its centerline, which I was able to use to exactly locate it, centering the trigger to the "bottom" flat panel of the hex blank. Came out great - right on the money. Can't do that with a round blank, been there and stressed over it.

I had to do something with the rear hand grip next. I wanted to keep it fairly short, like a slow-pitch rod would feature, but I wasn't wild about another free-hand EVA slicing job, as I just can't seem to make a quality cut, square to its length. The way a pro rod builder would do this is to mount the grip on mandrel chucked into their rod wrapping machine and use a razor knife or a piece of braided line to cut thru the EVA.

This is fine, except as previously noted, I don't have said wrapper. Hmmm, what to do? Here's what I came up with: I made my own "mandrel" out of a 6" #3 phillips drill bit, by wrapping on some tape arbors at +/- 17mm .

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Locked it into my trusty Ryobi drill, mounted the drill in my vice - and good to go! First off, I had to remove the tenion from the front of the grip, because it was sized for a 16 or 17mm reel seat, and of course my seat is an 18.

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Literally 2 seconds and buh-bye. Huh, nice!

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Next, after comparing the grip's length (at 3.5") to several of my slow pitch sticks, and given that the seat is a "Palming style," meaning that my hand will be completely in front of the trigger, I settled on 2.75" as the best length for my use.

This cut was a bit more difficult, as the razor knife had no "shoulder" to cut against, and so it wanted to walk all over the grip. Not good. So I had to cut deeply into the grip and then run the drill. Sweet! This is how I tend learn new stuff - creativity and trial and error. And eff-ups. Many, many eff-ups. Not this time though. Nice and clean.

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Some shape sanding with 220 and then 600 grit finishing paper - and mission accomplished.

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More tape arbors behind the seat, slather, push, twist, done.

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I wasn't wild about the shiny glue line between the seat and this grip, so I used some of the sanded grip powder to take the sheen away. Slid up and glued the rear winding check - and done for today.

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I'll let it lock up this afternoon, while I consider the bottom grip situation. I do have a 4.5" EVA grip available that I can cut and shape any way I want. But I did see a nifty rear grip assembly on AliExpress from Lure Sport, one of my favorite vendors. So of course it's on order and may arrive as early as next week. Let's see how it looks once it gets here. And just as important, what it does to address the slight tip heavy nature of this rod's previous incarnation. I believe that either way I go will work out. So for now its wait and see time.

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