Question on rewiring a trailer

Jack_Daniels

New Angler
I just rewired the trailer lights on my aluminum bunk trailer. I ran individual tinned wires to each light from a soldered main connection up in the neck of the trailer to keep it out of the water. I used the low temp solder/shrink tube butt connectors at each light connection to try and eliminate the corrosion issue.

I noted that the original wires and brake hoses were chaffing a bit against the trailer frame after just a year and a half. So i got the bright idea to enclose all the wires and the brake hoses in that plastic corrugated split wire loom to help protect them from chaffing.

For some reason i was thinking about it today, wondering why trailer manufacturers leave the wires and hoses exposed. . . Is it just because it's cheaper and less work? Or does the little bit of salt water that will remain in the loom cause a problem for the wires and/or brake hoses (flexible lines, not steel brake lines).

Anyone here with any insight?

TIA
 
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Nine times out of ten, manufacturing decisions are driven by cost. So I'd go with that.

Wires and hoses under water are not an issue. It's the connectors and metal fittings that you would need to watch.
 
I just rewired the trailer lights on my aluminum bunk trailer. I ran individual tinned wires to each light from a soldered main connection up in the neck of the trailer to keep it out of the water. I used the low temp solder/shrink tube butt connectors at each light connection to try and eliminate the corrosion issue.

I noted that the original wires and brake hoses were chaffing a bit against the trailer frame after just a year and a half. So i got the bright idea to enclose all the wires and the brake hoses in that plastic corrugated split wire loom to help protect them from chaffing.

For some reason i was thinking about it today, wondering why trailer manufacturers leave the wires and hoses exposed. . . Is it just because it's cheaper and less work? Or does the little bit of salt water that will remain in the loom cause a problem for the wires and/or brake hoses (flexible lines, not steel brake lines).

Anyone here with any insight?

TIA

Nine times out of ten, manufacturing decisions are driven by cost. So I'd go with that.

Wires and hoses under water are not an issue. It's the connectors and metal fittings that you would need to watch.

OR, they know damn well that their choice of cheaper materials used in trailer MFG will rot quickly in the salt water environment and we'd appreciate it if things were easily accessible for when we have to replace them...
 
OR, they know damn well that their choice of cheaper materials used in trailer MFG will rot quickly in the salt water environment and we'd appreciate it if things were easily accessible for when we have to replace them...

Not having paid much attention to wiring in the past, I've learned a lot with rewiring things on my new boat. I always buy tinned wire, and connectors if possible. I use heavier gauge wire than stock. Learning to solder connections. I'm dubious about these new no-crimp, low temp solder butt connectors I kept seeing ads for on FB, but we'll see. They seemed to work pretty nicely.

After learning all this as I've gone along, I am disappointed to see that every trailer wiring harness I've ever had uses plain, untinned, copper wire. For boat trailers, in the marine environment, that should be a standard. Even all the lights come w plain copper wiring. I know, they can say they make lights for all trailer applications. They don't know who's buying the lights or how they're being used, but it's still ridiculous. For the few extra pennies a foot of tinned wire will cost over plain... it's so easy to see how far back into the wire the corrosion goes as you cut back and just see all the wire turned black.

Anyway, so my weak points on my new wiring job will be my lights themselves with their weak copper wires... oh well. I just hope the soldered connections, with epoxy sealed heat shrink will keep them sealed.
 
Or does the little bit of salt water that will remain in the loom cause a problem for the wires and/or brake hoses (flexible lines, not steel brake lines).

Anyone here with any insight?

TIA

I don't think the saltwater in the loom will cause a problem. Connections and chaffing cause problems.
I feel your pain with boat trailer wiring. It seems its a constant battle. My last replacement was needed because the insulation chaffed inside the frame of the trailer. Saltwater got in and the wiring was toast.

I have had mixed results with the low temp solder splices. I tested the different sizes before I used them. I got consistently good connections with the 22-18awg and 16-14awg sizes. I had some questionable joints with the 12-10awg and just used regular butts for those. I've used heat shrink tubing that has the glue/sealant in it on those splices. You can see the glue ooze out on both ends making it watertight. I have also coated connections with liquid electrical tape and always had those connections hold up very well.
 
Thanks Capt. I didn't test my connections at all. I probably should've, especially since i was going from the stock wire harness to 14-ga wire. I think the stock was 16, but it could've been smaller. I made sure the epoxy came out of the connection ends on both sides though, so i was pretty confident in them being sealed.
 
I used the liquid tape on the splice the the neck. First time using that stuff! Messy but definitely solid sealant!

I also used dielectric grease in one large connection i had that i then sealed w shrink tube that didn't have the epoxy sealant in it.
 
Now you got it JD. If i am going to crimp i use Dielectric (sparingly) then liquid tape. messy yes but if you go back years later and do a continuity test you will see little or no loss or resistance. .

If im going to solder i make a Western Union splice, solder then liquid tape. Same results as above. Another thing is get some good Made in USA connectors Don't use those Chinese crimps.

JMHO, Works for me.
 
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