Tightening up screw holes

[Loonzter]

Just about everything that screws into my boat is loose. A lot of the screws cannot be tightened up because the holes are worn and the threads wont grip. Has anyone used Marine Tex to fill screw holes and then re-drilled them? I'm curious if its too brittle after it dries to drill new holes so screws hold tight again?

 

[Double Trouble]

I have used epoxy drill hole out a little bit larger and fill when cured redrill to right size and put screw back in.With areas that you can get behind glue a backing in and thru bolt.Dont forget to use a caulk sealant on the screws.

 

[Loonzter]

Thanks DT, I purchased a large amount of Marine Tex from Amazon (forgot how many ounces). I was planning on doing the teak on my boat for the first time in many years. Aside from the look not lasting through the full season the other reason I got away from doing it was each time I remove the teak molding and hatch covers they seem to go back on with less and less screws holding them tight. Like I stated I was thinking of using the Marine Tex to fill the screw holes and redrill them, but with the glass being less than a 1/4" thick I started to think it might just crack out when the screw gets tightened. I suppose the only way to find out is to try it and see what happens.

 

[MakoMike]

Try putting some five minute epoxy on the threads of the screws and then screw it in lightly. Tighten it up after waiting about 15 minutes. It doesn't always work, but its worth a shot before you start filling and redialing holes.

 

[Loonzter]

Try putting some five minute epoxy on the threads of the screws and then screw it in lightly. Tighten it up after waiting about 15 minutes. It doesn't always work, but its worth a shot before you start filling and redialing holes.

In your opinion would the screw be permanently secured in the hole with the 5 min epoxy?

 

[Leprechaun]

Nothing is permanently secured with 5 min epoxy. It had decent “pull apart” strength but very low “shear” strength.

I like your original plan better. Fully fill holes with Marine Tex and then re-drill. Marine Tex can be a bit brittle when used like this, so expect to have to do it again, down the line.

A better way to do this job, with increased permanence would be to either put a backing piece of some HDPE product like Starboard behind the screw hole and then using a longer self-tapping screw to grab the backing piece.

Or if you can’t get behind the screw hole, then drill the hole a bit more oversized (like if the correct screw was a #10, then open up the hole with a 1/4” drill bit), and then fill the oversized hole with marine epoxy resin, thickened with either wood flour, micro balloons, or Cabosil.

I tend to gravitate to West Systems epoxy products, but have also used MAS and Interlux epoxies with excellent results.

Anyway, leave it sit overnight and then re-drill the hole with the proper-sized drill bit. Then reinstall your #10 screw. That’s the two methods I’ve used all over my own 34-yr old boat. Still floats.

I think.

 

[cany]

Tap a sliver of wood into the hole insert screw

 

[Leprechaun]

Now THAT’S The true piker spirit!

 

[Loonzter]

Tap a sliver of wood into the hole insert screw

Na but thanks, its more than 1 screw and I'm trying to fix an issue not put a bandaid on it. Truth be told a while back I put some pieces of plastic straws to temporarily fix a problem but that only lasts until the screw needs to come out again. Now that I'm retired I'm thinking of doing the teak again and as we know the oil doesn't even make it thru one season. Glutton for punishment I guess. LOl

 

[Fishing Nerd]

I've done this with MarineTex, but I used a drill bit one size larger to drill it out a bit first to give it a clean piece of glass/epoxy to grab on to, and then screwed in the screw before fully hardened. Granted it wasn't a very heavy load bearing application (my battery switch), but it is on the transom where there's plenty of vibration and I haven't had a problem with it since. I usually make the same repair with plain two part epoxy, putting masking tape over the repair to make sure it doesn't seep out. If you're concerned about getting a clean release on the screw, you can apply a bit of wax to it as well.