1996 Privateer Renegade I/O to Outboard Conversion

[Scupper]

That's what I'm hoping. I am going to glass in 2 stringers where the former engine mounting blocks are. I also plan on adding another piece of 3/4" ply over the patch on the inside.

Overkill , I like it !!!!! Maybe a tube of 5200 between the layers ... Tried once to remove a stainless beam that ran from under the keel aft to hold the rudder ... Damm beam was bolted and glued with 5200 .... Bolts came out easy , 5200 was real tough ......... Finally gave up so as to not to distort the metal or damage the glass underneath , made the fix with the beam still attached ........

 

[Capt13]

Need to decide between Armstrong and Stainless Marine.

 

[Scupper]

Need to decide between Armstrong and Stainless Marine.

WHy do they leave the frame hollow ? I would think a bolt on flange along with a recessed wall would keep the extension watertight [ forever] ... I have a slight concern [ maybe wrong] that vibration will occur between the extension and transom and eventually allow water into the extension ....

 

[Capt13]

Glassed the underside of some new 3/4" ply with epoxy and 4 oz cloth to waterproof yesterday. Today I spent a couple hours de-greasing where the I/O was installed. Not fun, but needs to be done so I'm not grinding grease into the areas I'll be glassing.

 

[Old Mud]

Don't ya just love the crappy part ?? It is a necessary evil though to get that as clean as possible. Without that you would be inviting de lamination. Keep at it and the fun part will come soon.

 

[Fluke Whisperer]

Glassed the underside of some new 3/4" ply with epoxy and 4 oz cloth to waterproof yesterday. Today I spent a couple hours de-greasing where the I/O was installed. Not fun, but needs to be done so I'm not grinding grease into the areas I'll be glassing.

View attachment 3045

Armstrong type bracket all the way, their is a guy on ebay that makes them, 700$ to 950$ depending on what you want.
I would use naphtha followed by deep purple wash and then denatured alcohol.
I had to redo my transom on my Aquasport, it was loaded with grease and oil, I called a rep at Raka and asked whats the best way to clean the grease.
naphtha and denatured alcohol is what he told me, also said to get simple green.
I can tell you that it cleaned the grease and oil and left no residue, transom is 3yrs old and no signs of cracking or delamination.
I also made the transom a lot thicker by adding an extra 3/4 piece marine plywood, I was going to go with coosa, but after doing research I came away
knowing that marine plywood was the best way to go.
I like what your doing and have asked you about Raka epoxies on that other site lol, thanks to you I had a great experience with the product, I never got to thank you.
Thank You.
Can't wait to see how this is going to turn out, I admire your craftsmanship.
Jay

 

[Capt13]

Armstrong type bracket all the way, their is a guy on ebay that makes them, 700$ to 950$ depending on what you want.
I would use naphtha followed by deep purple wash and then denatured alcohol.
I had to redo my transom on my Aquasport, it was loaded with grease and oil, I called a rep at Raka and asked whats the best way to clean the grease.
naphtha and denatured alcohol is what he told me, also said to get simple green.
I can tell you that it cleaned the grease and oil and left no residue, transom is 3yrs old and no signs of cracking or delamination.
I also made the transom a lot thicker by adding an extra 3/4 piece marine plywood, I was going to go with coosa, but after doing research I came away
knowing that marine plywood was the best way to go.
I like what your doing and have asked you about Raka epoxies on that other site lol, thanks to you I had a great experience with the product, I never got to thank you.
Thank You.
Can't wait to see how this is going to turn out, I admire your craftsmanship.
Jay

Thanks Jay !!! Your post made my day ! I have been using Purple Power so far ...... seems to really melt the old grease. I am going to pick up some naptha and give it a try.

 

[Capt13]

I was going to try and use the stiffeners to mount the stringers to, but after I removed the motor blocks I could see that they don't line up. Gonna have to grind them down.

 

[Old Mud]

Cappy, you may want to try a Sawzall with a long blade. one that will bend and follow the hull. They will make short work of those stiffeners with the right blade.

 

[Scupper]

Cappy, you may want to try a Sawzall with a long blade. one that will bend and follow the hull. They will make short work of those stiffeners with the right blade.

I would try and work around those stiffeners instead of beating yourself up trying to get it right . .. .....

 

[Capt13]

I would try and work around those stiffeners instead of beating yourself up trying to get it right . .. .....

I have a long history of beating myself up Joe ...... just can't let it go. I will give the sawzall a try Don, thanks.

 

[Capt13]

I couldn't get the sawzall in position to try and cut them out. I ended up using an oscillating tool with a carbide blade on it. It was slow, but it did a great job ! I have a couple days in grinding ....... I think i'm about done. I won't know till after I clean up !

 

[Scupper]

I couldn't get the sawzall in position to try and cut them out. I ended up using an oscillating tool with a carbide blade on it. It was slow, but it did a great job ! I have a couple days in grinding ....... I think i'm about done. I won't know till after I clean up !

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Darn nice job !

 

[Capt13]

Cleaned up ..... did the glass work on the inside part of the patch. I faired it first by mixing epoxy and cabosil to a peanut butter thickness. Worked wet on wet right after with 3 layers of 1708. I tapered the existing glass down about 3" out to tie the new glass in.

 

[Roccus7]

Michelangelo is to Marble as Capt13 is to Fiberglass

 

[Scupper]

Cleaned up ..... did the glass work on the inside part of the patch. I faired it first by mixing epoxy and cabosil to a peanut butter thickness. Worked wet on wet right after with 3 layers of 1708. I tapered the existing glass down about 3" out to tie the new glass in.

View attachment 3432

View attachment 3433

I couldn't get the sawzall in position to try and cut them out. I ended up using an oscillating tool with a carbide blade on it. It was slow, but it did a great job ! I have a couple days in grinding ....... I think i'm about done. I won't know till after I clean up !

View attachment 3338

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Gotta love all that lovely dust ...
Hard backed pad for grinding ? The edges have fairly nice lines , and even rounded corners ...... Detail , detail , detail ..... The more I see your work the more I realize what a hack I am ..........

 

[wader]

looking good John.............

 

[Capt13]

Thanks gentlemen .......

 

[Capt13]

Hard backed pad for grinding ?

a hard backed pad ? ....... Is this what you mean? I started using a flapper disk on my grinder. Tears it up quick, but man, what a mess ! Is this what you mean?

Harbor Freight

New favorite tool, should have bought one twenty years ago. Light weight and tears the heck out of the glass ! I'll take it over my belt sander anyday !! :

.....and the old standby makita 9" grinder.

 

[Capt13]

Probably not needed but ........ I'm going to add another section of 3/4" ply glassed to the transom. Photo is the trial fit before I mix up thickend epoxy to bond it in place tomorrow. I already put a layer of 1708 on it and tapered the edges. The new stringers will tie into it.