How light is too light for Fluke fishing line?

I don't think 10 w/15 is crazy at all. Not sure what braid I use but I've been as low as 8 fluoro on the leader, never more than 20 though.
 
Captain Mike, I’m with Paul on this one. I only use Suffix 832 10 pound braid with about 5 feet of 30 pound floro at Cartwright, Lovers Ledge, Rocky Hill, etc and I cant tell you how many times the floro breaks instead of the braid when I get hung up.

I think for guys fishing the really big structure spots in South Jersey (train cars, barges, etc) will want to use thicker braid, but ten is all you need in our local waters.
John, I know you like to go super light for almost all the species you target and there is no doubt that there are several advantages to fishing this way, if you are experienced enough to do so. It sounds like Paul has a good handle on this too, despite the fact that he admits to losing a few more bucktails than those going with slightly heavier main lines and leaders. I also believe that if you do go much lighter with your leaders it would be wise to really scrutinize that leader for any knicks or frays almost every time you rebait. Obviously the margin for error is much smaller the lighter you go.

Personally, I rely on 40# leader with a 20# Suffix mainline for those extra sticky spots and I feel it does a good job of balancing the necessary feel while cutting the swift moving tides, and minimizing the breakoffs. What I am curious about is what do you supply to your charter customers. I am sure we both experience a wide range of expertise with our clients but my perspective is people are paying me to put fish in the box so I do tend to err a little on the heavier side. Naturally I will not stand in anyone's way if they choose to go with the super light stuff. However, it really pains me when I see someone lose a real quality fish because they wanted to go with a setup that I considered to be too light for the conditions.
 
I had such high hopes for the Goshen as it looked so pretty on the pink adorned reel, which is an important attribute we will all agree. Bittersweet expensive porgy sand line now.

The lack of pulling power was really discerning for me as stated. I was under the impression that my knots were all failing, which was very troubling to me. In the end I determined it was definitely the line, a relief to me and after switching lines I did not have a knot issue again.

I purchased a spool of Yo-Zuri SuperBraid in each 20 and 30 lb for my reels. Seems to be working ok so far.
 
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I haven't tried the Yo-Zuri braid as yet, but I do read good things about it. It's just that the Sufix 832, Berkley X-9 and Daiwa J-Braid 8 have been good to me, so I haven't really done much shopping around after the Gosen issues. I have to assume you've read my foregoing treatise on line and diameter up above?

If so it becomes obvious that though the Japanese JDM lines are really nice to use, they are not immune from the "laws of fishing line physics." By that I mean that its the diameter NOT the pound test rating that matters, when comparing a JDM line to a USDM line. Spectra/Dyneema is the same on either side of the Pacific Ocean - there is no magic way to make a thin line made of either fiber to out-test a thicker line. Just not possible.

This was the lesson learned from that failed Gosen experiment. That JDM 20lb test REALLY IS 20lb test - it will break at its rated strength. No games, no B/S. Our USDM "20lb test" will always break in the 30-35lb range. This is why we had those easy break-off issues with the Gosen 20lb.

In retrospect the smart play would have been to look at the 30lb version of the Gosen - but then it would be approx. the same diameter as "our" 20lb test - so no advantage in the water resistance department.

All things being equal, I think the Japanese strength-rating system is actually the more honest way to rate line. But we're used to our US-intended line "lying" to us about its strength, so there's that. . . :rolleyes:

Now there's a new fiber finding its way onto the Asian market - and its made "Polyester." I'll be looking into this over the coming season - but - to paraphrase the great Roger Daltry: "I won't be fooled again!" 8-)
 
Lep,

I did read what you had wrote above and fully agree with your opinions and findings. As you know you turned me onto the Gosen and we somewhat took that ride together fishing it during the same season and coming to the same conclusions.

I too believe the Japanese lines are true and unfortunately we in the US do not have a clear understanding or feel of actual breaking strengths of lines because ours are not properly or accurately portrayed ie 30 lb being marketed as 20 lb etc.

To actually use a line that breaks at its actual rated strength is blasphemy and utterly confusing to say the least. I can’t relate.

The Gosen does cut through the water like a hot knife through butter. I would certainly dabble with some more JDM line recommendations! . The Gosen has worked for me pretty good on the Shoals because there is less sticky bottom out there.

I figured most of you guys were on the 832 and J-Braid for a while so I would try something different. I used both in the past. I will be starting my 3rd season with good results thus-fare using the Superbraid.
 
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