How To Turn a Perfectly Good Custom Stick Into a Better One - Hopefully!

Leprechaun

Kind of a Big Deal - In My Mind Anyway
Staff member
Overview and Intentions

As many of you know, Captain Neil has been my rod builder, blank guru, and very good friend for more than 20 years. Over those many seasons he's built a bunch of really special sticks for me. But, some of them never were the recipients of my total love - for one reason or another. Oh sure, they all were/still are works of art, but they just never got to sail along with me on my seafaring excursions.

Short-ish rear handles, actions that really didn't work as well as we first thought, and a few other matters prevented my total devotion to a few of them. None of this was CN's doing. Rather, it was usually my know-it-all mindset that ofttimes lead us astray during the spec'ing/design/build process. Neil, being the good guy that he is would give his contrary opinion, which in some cases I overruled, usually to my detriment. Meh, live and learn.

So anyway, I've been "casting about" for some kind of fishing or boating-related project, because I'm starting to count fluke head-shakes to get to sleep. Such is the extent of my cabin fever. Oh sure, I've ripped into my reel collection, prepping them for the coming season. Re-re-cleaning some, as well as upgrading others (more to come on this, later in this thread). Did and still doing a ton of reel tune-ups and hot rodding for friends, but man, I NEED to get going on something a bit more challenging.

Surveying my "Lonely Hearts Club" of seldom-used CN creations, I found my long-forgotten Batson MB745, which frankly, I thought I had given away long ago. But no, it was still hanging on its rod hooks down in the basement, patiently awaiting my rediscovery.

I do recall why I never took to it, the 20mm reel seat was a bit too large for my medium hands whilst palming an ABU 5500 - which is what the rod was originally built to carry. Even the after-the-fact butt extension that CN later added didn't help endear it to me. Nothing wrong with the wrap-job though. Gorgeous Emerald Green under-wraps, with black over-wraps covering the chrome Fuji Alconite guides’ feet, and trimmed in bright silver. A REALLY pretty rod.

Taking it outside and giving it a tip-poke or two against my picnic table showed the sweet mod/fast bend that had attracted me in the first place. And so the “idea bubble” over my head filled with the thought of modding this rod into a true deep jigger - set up the way I NOW like to fish, with a long-ish 17" rear butt tucked under my arm, and my hand cupping a low-profile bait caster.

And guess what? I just happen to have a MINT emerald-green Curado 200E5 that I've been hoarding, just in case that North Shore fluke run ever does re-materialize. Sadly, at this point I think that's probably no more than a pipe dream. And so why not give my lovely little Shimano some attention on the deep grounds this coming season, atop a re-imagined version of this MB745?

I liked the idea so much that I immediately got on Mudhole.com's website and ordered in the parts needed to make this magic happen. More on this once the goodie box arrives from Florida.

This is not the first time that I've gone down this road. Not my first handle-modding rodeo. In fact Winter before last I tore apart both my much-loved Hydra NG846 and my CTS BS702 and rebuilt them into really first-class fluke deep jiggers. The "after-Neil" surgery made a serious difference for both of them.

As an aside, the black electrical tape "ring" mid-way down the Winn grip-wrapped rear handle area is there to protect the Winn tape from rod holder abrasion. I really need to find a more elegant way to address this issue. And I will, eventually. Anyway, take a look:

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My Batson mod-candidate is surrounded on its left by the Hydra (the original "Driftin' Donuts") and on the right by the CTS. O.K., I know, they're both a bit loud, or should I say LOUD! But they go perfectly with the reels that I built especially for each of them (also loud). Eh, what can I say? Its probably the Sicilian in me.

So, the trick is to strip the handle and reel seat, clean up the naked blank, and then rebuild the handle BACKWARDS, pushing the new handle grips and reel seat components up from the butt to the bottom of the decorative cross-hatch wrap. It ain't easy and its fraught with potential disaster, but I need to get this done, in order to preserve my fish catching-deprived sanity.
 
You are one ambitious dude, Lep!
Knowing you as well as I do, I'm sure it will come out great.
Can't wait to see the finished product in action this summer.
 
Hmmm ...... I wouldn't change anything. judging by your posts, you are a perfectionist who knows exactly how a rod is supposed to perform. With rod building, we learn more through failure than success.

I would just build another rod. At the very least, do a complete strip of that rod you wish to alter. Otherwise you'll end up spending more on the modifications.

Just my 0.2......
 
Overbored - I think you may have missed my main point. :)

Anyway, total parts cost, including the kind of pricey rod bond epoxy paste will be approx. $60. Not really all that much to pay for turning a $300+ Custom "never-used" into a "must bring along." Plus I get my needed Winter therapy - I cannot over-stress the importance of this aspect of the job.

Also, I've really come to understand that life is just too short to fret over a few bucks, relatively, speaking - and I ain't gettin' any younger, that's for sure.

I'd term this a "Win-Win" - IF I don't screw up the process! :rolleyes:
 
Demolition Begins - "Its gotta get ugly, before it gets pretty."

Job one entails the removal of the existing reel seat. This is the somewhat nerve-wracking portion of the process. First, the rod must be well secured and remain perfectly flat - lest I cut into the blank. That would be bad. So my 30 yr. old bench vise got the call. This bad boy could tell some crazy-assed boat and Corvette-modding and maintenance stories, that's for sure. And some catastrophic failures as well. Hey, there's no success without the occasional mess-up. Just the way its always been, for me at least.

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So anyway, now its cutting time, and for that I revved up my trusty 35 yr old Dremel mini zip tool, carrying a reinforced carbide cutting wheel. First step, the lock ring/forward reel hood assembly has to go. Made a cut though each side of it, inserted a healthy-sized screwdriver into one of the cuts - and twist. POP! There it goes, in two pieces.

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The trigger portion of the seat departs next. Same procedure, except the cuts have to be a bit deeper, because the "graphite" (plastic, really) is much thicker here.

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Don't hate on my Interlux paint-encrusted Snap-on screwdriver. Its the one I've officially designated to open my bottom paint cans, for the full 25 seasons of having owned the Lep. At this point I have no intention of ever cleaning it up. I don't care to mess with tradition. Its bad JuJu.

POP! There goes the trigger assembly, half-way across the garage floor.

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Good work, so far. Now comes the tougher, more precise cutting. The idea here is to slice through the reel seat's thin "tube," without hitting the blank inside. That would be what the I T guys call a "fatal error." Sometimes its easy, sometimes not. It really depend on the diameter of the blank, with respect to the seat barrel's inner diameter. Slow and steady wins the game here.

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Again, a long cut down either side of the seat tube, in goes the screwdriver and off come the seat halves. Whew, glad that's over and done with. All downhill from here. Meh, far from it, but I like thinking that way.

Sidebar: The best boat mechanic that I've ever known passed away this past January. But having worked with him every spare minute I could for over 20 years, I've learned the hard way to follow his maxim: "Break up a big project into a bunch of smaller ones and it all becomes much more manageable." That was really good advise that I've never forgotten. Sounds deceptively simple - until you have to re-engine an inboard boat - or rebuild a Corvette's Big Block motor. Then his wisdom shines through. I really miss that guy.

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You can see in this next image that Capt. Neil never cut corners on supplies. Look how evenly the epoxy paste filled the voids under the seat, completely covering the masking tape arbors. This seat would NEVER have come loose during a lifetime of use. Just the way Neil always did things - the right way.

This is in sharp contrast to the reel seats I've seen replaced on factory rods, both in Mark Flynn's old shop here in Wantagh, and on Neil's basement rod building work bench as well. In all three cases (two different rod manufacturers) the seats were mounted over crappy carboard tubes, (think just a squinch thicker than toilet paper inner rolls), and no more than a teeny amount of epoxy - small wonder they failed.

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Anyway, so far, so good. Next up will be the removal of the cork grips and the old reel seat's epoxy, and then blank prepping to receive the new handle components. If you're still "with me" on this thread, stick around, the interesting part of this project will be along shortly.

The therapeutic value of this work cannot be over-stated. I'm feeling much better already! :rolleyes:
 
Gathering the needed tools

Here's the weaponry that will make the next phase of this job manageable - a Hamiliton Beach electric knife, my Ace Hardware heat gun, my Harbor Freight "detail sander,' and finally, my trusty Ginsu knife that has cut about 80 thousand bunker for green crab bait. Seems like 80 thousand, anyways.

Please don't snicker at a former Snap-on Tools dealer using Harbor Freight "junque." Even though I'm used to having the "good stuff" in my hands for such and sundry jobs, this little sander has been through hell and back for over 8 seasons of teak, bottom paint and tons of other close-in sanding jobs. It has never let me down - I therefore give it a well-earned "5 Shamrocks" ☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️ award for toughness and longevity. No need to spend big bux on a Dewalt, Makita or other such name brand mini-sander. This one is great!

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Stripper Pole

This is really going to develop into a "how the sausage gets made" type of thread - and I do realize its not for everyone. But if you might have an interest in this sort of stuff, or maybe you're just a bit curious as to how a bored fishing website Moderator spends his spare time in the off season, read on.

So anyway, the rear grip will be the first to go. The electric carving knife comes in handy for beginning this process.

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Not long into this job I found that the Ginsu is just about as effective - and a lot more forgiving of a potential screw up. Best to not hit the blank with the electric knife's blades. That type of damage would be tough to repair.

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This is about as close as I dare get with the knife. Its looking like it just fell off the ugly tree, right? Eh, no worries, I got this.

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So now its time to bring my "Harbor Freight Special" sander into the fray. 60-grit followed by 120-grit makes quick work of cork. Skin too, if not careful.

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Getting down to it now and there's Captain Neil's extension that he added at my behest, covered
in the toughest amalgam of fiberglass spackling tape and epoxy putty that I've ever had the displeasure of
sanding. Wow, it is some really tough stuff.

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In for an itch, In for a mile.

The pre-formed cork grip that Neil used for the rear extension must have had a larger I.D. than was ideal, so Neil built up the butt extension's O.D. to match the ID of that grip. Yeesh, this is a tough sanding job. Nasty epoxy dust with fiberglass flecks flying everywhere. Where the hell is my fancy cartridge-type respirator? Never can find that thing when I need it. My dopey blue paper mask is even less effective here than in stopping COVID at the supermarket. :rolleyes:

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Once I had that onerous task completed, it was time for an "evening out" sanding of the rear grip area of the blank to a very decent smoothness. A quick going over with a razor knife and then a 3-M fine sanding block for surface flattening gets the job done.

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Next, its time to removing the old reel seat's epoxy and masking tape arbors. No way that "just cutting it off" will work. That epoxy paste is really hard to bite into, no matter the knife or razor employed. So its time to bring the heat gun into the fight. But this is a two-headed monster - yes, it will soften the epoxy, but it will also quickly wreck the rod blank as well, should the working area become overheated. So the trick is to apply heat until one just begins to smell the epoxy out-gassing, and then STOP!

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This will soften the glue just enough to allow the Ginsu to effectively bite into it.

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Once the majority of the epoxy is removed, the sanding begins anew.

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After making the reel seat area nice and smooth, the fore grip is the last component to remove. I now subject it to my "Ginsu and Sander therapy." Surprisingly, under the cork is a quite symmetrical and weirdly attractive spiral of masking tape embedded in the epoxy. Again I assume it was there to take up clearance for the foregrip's proper fitment to the blank. Not a real challenge to remove and give a smoothing sand.

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Next, a quick clean-up very light sanding with my extra fine sanding block, and then a rinse in the wife's kitchen sink to remove the sanding dust - luckily she was NOT around to express her interest in this project, as only she can.

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Finally, a good wipe-down with 91% rubbing alcohol - and we are now GTG (good to go) for the final phase of this project - rebuilding the grips and reel seat - backwards.

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Reconstructive Surgery

Time to start making it pretty again. Received most of my supplies in house today and this is what's needed to finish this job. From the top left, a decorative trim for the rear of the reel seat (soon to be subbed out for a silver version for a bit more blingy contrast), a Mud Hole house brand CRB painted reel seat - that pretty closely matches the color of my Curado, 8oz. of rod builder's epoxy adhesive, 91% rubbing alcohol to be able to clean up that adhesive, a bunch of cut up paper towels to use with the alcohol, three rubber ring hosels (a.k.a.: "winding checks") to terminate the grips, a roll of tennis racket grip tape to cover the naked rear blank (soon to be subbed by a roll of Winn Tape), the three Winn Grips in "natural cork" color, two types of masking tape, a spatula to mix and apply the epoxy, and finally, a rod grip hone to open up the holes in grips, so to fit them to the blank. Gonna do a trial component fitting today and glue it all up later on, once the other pieces arrive.

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Because I'm building in reverse, the fore grip is the first to be fitted. The inner hole of the grip as provided by Winn is a mere .325", while the rear of the rod butt is .575" and so the grip's thru hole requires enlarging. However the end of the tapered hone is .486", therefore the hole needs to be started with a small coarse round rat-tail file before I can get to work with the hone.

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Once I reached an ID of about .525" it was safe to semi-forcibly slide it over the blank's fat rear and up to its final location. Of course first I had to put the front hosel on the blank. 30 seconds under my kitchen's Instant-on Hot Water tap had it sufficiently stretchy to allow it to slide over the blank's butt and on up the blank. Rolled on a couple of wraps of 1/4" masking tape for the foregrip to sit on, and GTG.

Next up was the reel seat. A comparative breeze, just needed to built up a few "lines" of masking tape and slide her up to a snug fit.

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Need to wait for the seat's silver trim ring to arrive, but in the meantime I honed and fitted the hand grip. A few tape rings and it fit like a glove.

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Slide up that grip's rear hosel and then the butt grips' hosel (facing downwards). Gave the grip a bit of a honing (The factory hole is .475") and voila, a nice snug fit.

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And here's how it all looks so far:

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Not too shabby, I would say. The soon to arrive Winn tape will pull the whole design together and
make it look much more complete. But so far, so good!
 
Nice work, Pete. You are correct, the reel seat looks exactly the same shade of green as a Curado. I hope the end cap nut you ordered for mine is as close a match.

Damn, I'm going to a darker shade of sunglasses to look at that beauty in the sun!!
 
Hah! its gonna be loud, but not as LOUD! as my other setups. The cork-tone Winn grips are actually quite nice, I hadn't seen them up close until now.

And yes, the handle nut I ordered for you will match. What, you think me a Philistine? ;)
 
Glue Sniffing

My remaining components finally showed up today from Mudhole.com, and so its time to glue it all together. First task is to remove all the test-assembled parts, except for the front hosel and fore grip. The hosel got slid forward and the fore grip down, in order to expose its tape bushings.

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Cleanliness is paramount here, otherwise the epoxy paste will find its way all over everything, including various parts of the rod's blank, between the first few guides, and worst of all, onto the reel seat's gorgeous paint job. Nothing worse than epoxy fingerprints on an otherwise cherry build.

There are a few ways to maintain cleanliness. My way is the generous use of blue painter's tape on all the to-be-glued components, along with the first 2 feet of the rod as well. The 91% alcohol, and precut paper "towelettes" also go a long way toward keeping such a build "proper." Each component gets wrapped in turn for its glue-up.

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Equal parts resin and hardener need to be well mixed, in order to ensure proper adhesion of the parts to the bushings and blank.

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This will all tend to get sloppy quickly, no matter how careful the builder is. As I said, it is critically important to stay on top of the adhesive as it squishes out from under the components on their respective installs. And most of all, keeping my hands scrupulously free of any of the tackiness, as that's how the aforementioned epoxy fingerprints are created. Generous use of the alcohol towelettes is mandatory.

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Once the foregrip and hosel were properly placed and the overage of adhesive cleaned up, its time to mix up a more generous dollop of epoxy for the reel seat, hand grip and bottom grip. Mixing at a 50/50 rate will allow approx. 45 minutes of "pot time," so if its all planned out in advance (hence the prior trial fitting), it should all go together quickly and cleanly.

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Plenty of adhesive under the reel seat - ala Captain Neil. No way I want to take this apart a second time to repair a loose reel seat! Careful wrapping of the reel seat in the blue tape is critical - unless trying to extricate half-hardened epoxy from the reel seat's threads is your thing. It's not mine.

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And so it went. The reel seat slid onto its bushings like it should, the two lower hosels were put on, each with a tiny bit of adhesive, and the butt grip was then glued in place. Because the tiptop was on the blank there was no place for the displaced air to escape as I pushed the butt grip up onto the blank. A discrete pin hole dead center in its bottom resolved that minor matter.

And this is how it came out - after sighting down the rod what seemed like 500 times - so to ensure the reel seat lined up perfectly with the guides. Or as perfectly as a near-sighted old guy can get it, anyway.

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It'll all lock up overnight, whilst quietly resting in my garage. Tomorrow afternoon I'll install the Winn tape - and that will complete the build.
 
Nicely done!

I was sceptical but you made me a believer.

I also spent many hours at Mark Flynns store. He was always gracious enough to let me use his lathe to sand down my cork grips. Great guy. Sorely missed. Pretty much everything I know about rod building is from him.

Let us know how the "new" rod fishes.......
 
And That’s a “Wrap.”

Time to finish this project. Here's what's needed to cover the naked rear blank area with Winn Grip tape. Based on earlier mis-adventures I strongly recommend using Scotch brand double-sided tape under the Winn tape. I know the Winn tape has its own adhesive on its backside, but believe me, it is not sufficient.

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Here's the area under construction with the Scotch tape applied.

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For anyone thinking of using this Winn tape product, I suggest viewing this YouTube video. Expeditiously following the demonstration video's directions will give the desired results.



All done. It came out as nice as I anticipated!

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Even though I was heavily immersed in this rod refit didn't mean I couldn't also get busy modding my Curado 200E5 to better match up with the rod. A total disassembly and clean out was called for, as it had been sitting in its box for years. As I thought, it was dry as a bone, lube-wise - and now all better.

Just because I could, I added a fresh set of Chronarch 5.5:1 gears, a CarbonTex drag setup from Smoothdrag, a 100mm x 3mm Carbon Fiber handle, The latest ball-bearing knob set from Gomexus in a matching color, a pair of "Orange Seal" ABEC5 spool bearings from Boca bearings, an aluminum handle nut setup in dark green, and a fresh spooling of 20lb Daiwa J-Braid "8" in chartreuse. Came out pretty well, I would say.

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Here it is mounted on the rod.

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Take a look at this balance point. Exactly where it should be for best wrist comfort. There's nothing that discourages my fishing a given setup more than a tip-heavy stick. Just awful to use for a full day's deep jigging with significant weight bucktails.

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And that's about it. It was a long process, one that no pro rod-builder could take on without charging heavily for the time expended - which was as they say, "ample."

That's why I learned to do this sort of modding myself. I trust that my explanations and images were clear enough that if you want to give such work a shot, I helped make the job a bit less mysterious.

Did I satisfy my extreme off-season blues? Yeah, I guess. :rolleyes:

Anyway, its almost time to get busy with the boat's repairs and Spring commissioning, so I'll be plenty occupied as soon as I start that work.

Oh, and Capt. Mike? Probably best to get those new sunglasses, if you want to view this setup in the bright sun. It is "Killa-Bright" 8-)

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Follow up - video of a 3lb fattie on this stick. Note Georgie's excellent netting technique! Tough conditions too, had the drift sock deployed the entire day - as you can see.


 
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