How light is too light for Fluke fishing line?

SovLiving

New Angler
Hi everyone, long time no see. Just dreaming about early May when I can finally go out and target Fluke.

Question for all of the seasoned vets here… how light is too light for your fishing line? I plan on going “aggressive” and using 10 lb braid with 15 lb flouro leader in the shallows up to ~20 feet of water. Am I crazy? Just want to switch it up a bit and try something different. Plan on using the lightest jighead that will let me stay on bottom with the shorter gulp mullet variety for early season action. When the water warms in the open ocean I’ll go heavier line of course.

Interested to get your thoughts.
 
I use 10lb braid for deep water drops and up to 6 oz jig heads, I've gone as light as 8lbs.
To me it's whatever you think is comfortable for you. Your equipment must also allow for the lighter line, although I believe that 10lb braid is underrated, I do keep a couple of spinning rods with 15lb braid on hand.
Leader can be as light as 15 lb and up to 25 lb if I'm fishing rocky areas.
Best bet is to experiment with what you want to fish with then adjust appropriately.
I have been and always will be a light tackle fanatic.
Good luck on your choice of line.
 
I use 20 lb braid to 15 pound floro in shallow water and 20 to 25 floro in deeper water. As the Whisperer noted there are allot of variables to take into account. I fish with some real sharpies on some rough bottom and they feel mono is the better choice there.
 
Captain John Paduano said you can snap jig with 10 pound braid and catch big stripers. He was right. I have done it and I have pics of bass that would put mine to shame.

For fluke it will work great. That will allow you to use lighter bucktails. Just make sure you drag is correctly set and works well.
 
For the last three years all I have used in south shore back bay water from 12' to 30' is 12lb braid, 15lb fluoro leader with 3/4 oz Gulp tipped leadhead and a Gulp tipped teaser on a "Lep" rig about 14 inches from the lead (HT LureCo). If I took away the silicone skirt and the bucktail hair I could probably get by with a 1/2 oz leadhead. I haven't hooked up an errant schoolie as yet, and only the occasional blue, but its been great for fluke and weaks. Off a kayak the fish doesn't even leave the water until its fully netted. Anyone else have a fluke try to get away swimming backwards? Quite a sight.
 
So, this subject has been repeatedly discussed across many Interweb boards over the years, including this one. “How strong should line be?” The answer depends - and it’s not necessarily about the size of the fish. Certainly, a 10lb fluke presents no real line-breaking challenge on 10lb test line, which I guess is an obvious point. Just use a net to get him in the boat and all will go as planned.

What is not so obvious is: “what exactly IS 10lb test anyway?” Well, that’s a more complicated question. I addressed this subject in a few threads over the years, most notably this one:


And its not just the composition of the line (as nearly all are made from either Spectra or Dyneema – which for our purposes are identical synthetic fibers). It also depends on where you buy it. I don’t mean from your local Field and Stream store versus your favorite tackle shop, rather from a European or American manufacturer, versus an Asian-intended market. Not a Caucasian-centric point, so please read on.

Here are my thoughts on this subject, much of it lifted from my own threads, with some edits and updating. I like to self-plagiarize, because it saves burning even more of my rapidly dwindling supply of brain cells, as well as my typing finger tips as well.

As I said, this "Pound Test" subject brings up the whole "Japanese PE braided line vs what’s available here" discussion. Well, I'll try to be brief, in the interest of not having people clicking off this tread, after being bored to tears. But then again, brevity is just not my style. So be fore-warned! LOL!

Let's begin - It is obvious to those that look at the latest in fishing gear that the JDM market has been consistently well ahead of what's available here. It is apparent to me that they get at least a 5-8 year jump on "the good stuff," with very few exceptions. This usually applies to reels, rods and especially to higher-tech braided lines.

In the Asian sexy line department, some of the biggest players are Varivas, Sunline and YGK, along with somewhat smaller manufacturers, like Gosen. Frankly, all of the big Asian line providers make a bewildering assortment of differing lines, for specific applications. These can vary greatly in weaves, called "Pics" per inch, the number of individual threads utilized, coatings, and overall limpness. It’s really quite intimidating, once you get into it. Interesting though . . .

For example, at this point everybody knows of the excellence of Sufix's 832, Berkley X9 and J-Braid 8 - all widely available here in the USA. But how many know of the Japanese equivalent of 832, called Performance Pro 8, which omits the single Gore-Tex thread and goes straight PE for all 8 threads? This actually makes for a thinner and somewhat limper line. But it’s not available here, unless you bring it in yourself from a Japanese vendor, like Japan Tackle, Digitaka or Plat. Or you can look to another Sufix line that is JDM only, which is a 16-thread line, though it’s no thicker than their 8-thread version. Costs plenty, but it’s said to be MUCH improved. When do you think we'll see that stuff here? Probably never, would be my guess. Gosen also offers such a line - at right around $85 for a 300-meter spool. It better be a GREAT line for that kind of money, that's for sure.

Nearly all the Japanese line manufacturers offer several versions of "Jigging Braid," which is designed to shoot your lure to the bottom and to keep it there - plus it’s so tightly woven that it will not pick up very much water like most other braids, which translates into much less spool and other component corrosion of your reel. I like that. Hate the price though - as much as four times the cost of our "normal" USDM stuff.

Some of the "best" Asian slow pitch-intended braids will cost more than $90 to fill a small-ish reel, and the Japanese will happily pay it, in order to use tiny rods on large fish. Many of these line makers offer in excess of 20 types of braided line, even featuring specifically developed lines for squid fishing - called "egging" in Asia. I don't know a ton about this type of line, except that its very, very limp and very, very thin. Very, very expensive too . . . so there's that.

Perusing the Japanese tackle vendors sites, I was looking for a super thin line, in 20lb. test, as the intended use was on my then-new Daiwa Catalina, mounted on my Daiwa Proteus SS "H" casting rod, for those days that are so rotten that even a 6oz bucktail fails to maintain contact with the bottom. Putting out a B/S rig with an 8, 10 or even 12oz sinker is no one's idea of fun, but if I'm already out there, and I think the fish are under the boat, I ain't a'comin' home - or heading inshore, in the hopes of calmer conditions. Just NOT my style. Sometimes ya' just gotta suck it up and fish through, ya' know?

With that sort of "Combat Fluking" in mind, I purposely did NOT buy a deep-vee hulled boat all those years ago, because my intended mission was to find an alternative that would NOT rock 'n roll me right off the deck, whilst drifting broadside to the prevailing wave action. That type of boat motion gets really old, really fast. And so my boat's hull design, when combined with its deeply center-mounted inboard's low center of gravity, gives me the ability to continue to fish through days with particularly nasty conditions. Charles Jannice was my boat's marine architect, which is somewhat ironic, because he also designed several of the world's best deep-vee boats, including the 29', 32' and 38' Blackfins. Naturally, because of my hull's design I have to give up some speed in a head sea situation. But that's the trade-off I was and still am willing to make.

For that type of nasty day I always bring along a heavier setup, in order to deal with what seems to be an increasingly common type of fishing. Heck in 2018 we never even put the drift sock in the water, not a single time. In 2019, we used it nine times out of maybe 20 trips - that's how bad conditions were during this season's deep fluking. Man 'o man, I hope 2020 gives us a return to 2018's much nicer conditions, and not a duplicate of 2019's "Summer of Wind." Eh, either way, I'll be out there.

That all being said, what I was looking for in a line was something very thin, but equally strong - so to really cut thru the water, thus allowing a lighter jig or sinker on "those" days. Also important was high visibility (my eyes aren't getting any younger), as well as being fairly limp. This took a ton of research, but I believe that I've found it in Gosen's X8 Braid in 20lb. test. And its available in a pink color - perfecto for this new reel! Done. Ordered it in and though it took a couple of weeks, it appears that it was worth the wait.

Here's Gosen's Japanese web page for this line: 剛戦X8ブレイド ソルトウォーター |製品紹介|株式会社ゴーセン フィッシングサイト(GOSEN)

Ask your browser to translate, I have my Google Chrome set to perform that function automatically. Even a quick perusal of that site's other pages will bear out the near ridiculous number of application-specific lines that Gosen offers - and they aren't even close to the largest provider of PE lines in Japan.

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Gosen's box is completely unreadable, being in Japanese, naturally. But hey, it does say one thing in English - "Absolutely Fantastic!" For now, I'll have to take their word for it, pending actual tryouts, this coming May.

I loaded it onto my Catalina this morning and can safely say that this is the thinnest 20lb line that I've ever seen. Though I cannot accurately measure it here at the house, it looks to me to be about HALF the diameter of my current favorite 20lb. line, Sufix 832 - look here, this is the best image I could take:

IMG_0719_edited.jpg


It is stunningly thinner - more like 8 or 10lb test Sufix 832. And this brings up yet another "issue" when evaluating braided lines, one to another. Here in the good old USA, line makers tend to "under-rate" their lines, meaning that 20lb Sufix 832 has been repeatedly reported to break in the mid-30 pound range. So it does offer a "breakage cushion" for pulling free from deep snags and the such. Most other USA-intended lines are similarly over-rated, as evidenced by several websites that have compiled such intel.

Can I safely predict that my new Gosen line is both super, super thin AND also offers that same over-rated level of surplus breaking strength? At this point, of course not. But I'll find out soon enough, that's for sure. And find out I did. Keep reading . . .

I’ve been watching YouTube videos of other guys with some aptitude doing their offshore fluke jigging over obstructed bottom with as light as 10lb test braid. And though they show quite a few large fluke coming aboard, they never seem to show what happens with such light line when they hang bottom. I'm sure one can safely assume that they donate a hefty amount of jigs for their efforts.

If I'm figuring correctly, my new Gosen braid is double that pound test, while giving up little in diameter to the more commonly available 10lb braids. Hey, its a gamble, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. That's what I do anyways, so whatever I find out about the feasibility of this line, I'll post up.

One last thing. Though this line is relatively inexpensive as JDM lines go, its still more than twice the price of any PP, Sufix, or Daiwa PE line available here - so that's a consideration as well, I guess. The way I rationalize this is if it works as intended in a rough ocean by facilitating the use of lighter jigs or sinkers, while still providing the ability to pull free from at least a few snags out where I fish, then its money well spent.

If you don't buy into my rationale, or do not care to wait for my report on the veracity of this new line, or just want a pink braid that's commonly sold here, then Spiderwire offers their Stealth braid in a tracer-pink/black version. Its 4-thread braid, which is no longer considered cutting edge, but so what? We used 4-thread lines for years before the newer 8-thread stuff became widely available. Anyway, here's my Catalina, all spooled up and ready to go, come the fluke opener:

IMG_0721_edited.jpg


So, the 20lb Gosen was on the reel, I took it out to my favorite deep, rocky areas and BOOM! No good. Break-off aplenty. Please read on . . .

And so, this brings up yet another "issue" when evaluating braided lines, one to another – and its more about line diameter I’m referring to here. In the good old USA, line makers tend to "under-rate" their lines, meaning that 20lb Sufix 832 has been repeatedly reported to break in the mid-30-pound range. And so, it does offer a "breakage cushion" for pulling free from snags and the such. Most other USA-intended lines are similarly over-rated, as evidenced by several websites that have compiled such intel.

So, that last paragraph from 2019 turned out to be quite prescient. In actual practice this Gosen line cuts thru the deep-water currents like no other 20lb I've ever used. On those days that called for a 5 or 6oz bucktail, I can comfortably and accurately fish a 4oz - much nicer to jig the "smaller"-sized lure for several hours, obviously.

But the down side was that I was not able to pull free of the many snags that are endemic to the deeper locales that I fish. Ultimately, too many lost rigs lead to me swapping out the Gosen 20lb for a fresh load of Sufix 832. Here's the graphic difference, and I'm showinq a Sunline Siglon box as a sub for the Gosen box - because the Gosen box does not feature the pound test/diameter numbers. Sunline Siglon is another Japanese uber-thin braid - very analogous in diameter and handling characteristics to Gosen:

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And here's my then-favorite line in the same lb test:

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End Part One
 

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Part Two

There are two big clues present on the last two boxes. First, though both are rated as "20lb test," note that the Japanese braid features a diameter of 0.187mm, while the 832 is MUCH thicker, at 0.230mm.

I know, these are very small numbers to most people. But coming from the world of industrial precise measurement, believe me, there is a HUGE difference between the two numbers, close to 20% in fact. This translates into 20% more drag in the water, bearing out my earlier statement about being able to sub a 4oz lure for a 6oz version.

However, and this is the big one - also note that the Japanese line boxes show 20lb as the MAX breaking strength - with no such mention on the 832 box. Here is Sunline's numbers:

Sunline Siglon.jpg


And here are Sufix 832's numbers for comparison:

832 Diameter.jpg


Therefore, it becomes obvious that 20lb 832's diameter of 0.230 is more than equal to Sunline's 30lb test, probably more like 33lb test. This explains a lot - and bears out my 2019 thoughts and 2020/2021 "on the grounds" observations. Conversely, according to Sufix's numbers, their 0.180mm line is ONLY what they call 8lb test. But again, that is not the "max" number, it is the pound test that Sufix CHOOSES to assign to that diameter. Completely subjective, right?

As I wrote waaaay back at the beginning of this post, there is no "magic material" that these lines are made of - PE material is PE material, whether its called Dyneema, Spectra or some other name - depending on who the original fiber manufacturer happens to be. The real differences between the premium Japanese lines and the ones more commonly available to us, (here in the USA) other than the extreme thinness, is in the tightness of the weave, and the finish - and in both of those characteristics the Japanese are way ahead. Just run a premium Japanese braid through your fingers and you will know.

But given all the above - what's this all mean, in terms of choosing the “correct” line for your purposes? It means there really is no such thing as a "free lunch," when it comes to fishing line diameter. It means that you have to give up something to gain something. It’s really a question of line diameter vs strength. Bottom line, it means that I cannot fish an uber-thin "20 lb" Asian-sourced braided line on my deep drops.

Well, I can, if I don't mind giving up a good bit more in the way of jigs and GULP!. I now know that the Gosen (and Sunline) "20lb" lines, though really fantastic to fish, just do NOT have the tensile strength needed to pull free from what would normally be "retrievable" snags, were I using 20lb 832 (or Berkley X-9, or J-Braid too, for that matter). It also means that though the 20lb Asian braids “failed” in my application, stepping up to a 30lb version may well have been the way to go. Except in that case the diameter is about the same as the USDM lines offer. So, other than the superior finish and handling, there is no real advantage to spending $40/spool for a line, when a $15 spool of 832, X9 or J-Braid 8 will do the job perfectly well.

If I were fishing less sticky bottom, then fine, I will say that what I purchased as "20lb" Gosen would be great. But for my specific purpose, nope, I have had to step up to a more substantial line - in my case I went with 20lb 832 "Ghost," which is a sort of milky white color. I have moved my pretty pink Gosen "20lb" line to one of my lighter spinning setups - which I will use for East-end porgy fishing and perhaps for Bay fluking (if I ever do that fishing, ever again) - both of which applications are far less demanding than my mid-Summer deep fluking adventures.

As I wrote, I suppose I could have ordered in a spool of pink 30lb Gosen 8Braid. But I couldn't find a vendor with it in stock, and I'd like to continue using that rod/reel setup, without benching it for a couple of weeks of prime ocean jigging season, while I track down and then wait for a shipment from Japan. Not to mention, the diameter of Gosen's 30lb is so close to 832's 20lb, what would be the big difference, other than slightly better handling? Not worth it - not to me, anyway.

Long way around saying that my slightly expensive and somewhat disappointing experiment in using an uber-thin braid did not work satisfactorily over my rocky bottom drops. But it might well have been perfectly fine over sand, or up in the South Shore bays, adjacent to my marina.

So, after all the words above it boils down to using the line diameter that best suits your fishing style and locale. In my case 20lb USDM braid and 40lb mono for my rigs is what trial and error has shown to work very well. In fact the 40lb Berkley Big Game I use for my B/S Rigs will nearly always break at one of the knots, usually the dropper knot, and this spares me giving up long lengths of my braid to the snags that eventually take so many of my bucktails from me.

End of braided line grad school. Congratulations on making it through the course! Pass by my rig on the offshore grounds this season to collect your doctoral degree.
 
I've used Cortland Master Braid 10lb test the past 2 seasons in deep water places like Montauk and Nantucket and have been a big fan. As far as leader goes the heaviest ill go is 30lb fluoro.
 
If you're losing brain cells then I'm brain dead! Great read! Im glad it's a different color than mine. It helps getting out those tangles ?.
 
I've used Cortland Master Braid 10lb test the past 2 seasons in deep water places like Montauk and Nantucket and have been a big fan. As far as leader goes the heaviest ill go is 30lb fluoro.
Paul, I think the issue here, as Lep mentioned, is not merely the depth you are fishing but how many obstructions cover the bottom being worked. I fish Montauk for Fluke regularly on my boat each summer and while there are some deep drops with minimum snags where you could get away with really light braid and a 30# leader, try that at a spot like Cartwright and you will be donating an awful lot of rigs.

Although I have never fished Fluke off Nantucket it is my understanding a lot of the drops they work up there are mainly sloping sandy bottom so under those conditions lighter line would work fine.
 
Paul, I think the issue here, as Lep mentioned, is not merely the depth you are fishing but how many obstructions cover the bottom being worked. I fish Montauk for Fluke regularly on my boat each summer and while there are some deep drops with minimum snags where you could get away with really light braid and a 30# leader, try that at a spot like Cartwright and you will be donating an awful lot of rigs.

Although I have never fished Fluke off Nantucket it is my understanding a lot of the drops they work up there are mainly sloping sandy bottom so under those conditions lighter line would work fine.
I fish Cartwright, Frisbees and a few other areas most of the summer, I’m lucky to make my own jigs so I can afford losing a few, I will admit losing jigs hurts regardless. I just enjoy getting the lightest jigs as possible into the strike zone. You’re right about Nantucket very limited snags and the lighter braid is even more beneficial.
 
Hi everyone, long time no see. Just dreaming about early May when I can finally go out and target Fluke.

Question for all of the seasoned vets here… how light is too light for your fishing line? I plan on going “aggressive” and using 10 lb braid with 15 lb flouro leader in the shallows up to ~20 feet of water. Am I crazy? Just want to switch it up a bit and try something different. Plan on using the lightest jighead that will let me stay on bottom with the shorter gulp mullet variety for early season action. When the water warms in the open ocean I’ll go heavier line of course.

Interested to get your thoughts.
I like it if your in the shallows on a Sandy bottom
 
I fish Cartwright, Frisbees and a few other areas most of the summer, I’m lucky to make my own jigs so I can afford losing a few, I will admit losing jigs hurts regardless. I just enjoy getting the lightest jigs as possible into the strike zone. You’re right about Nantucket very limited snags and the lighter braid is even more beneficial.
Sounds like you have a good handle on working the light stuff even in some of the more unforgiving areas. No doubt that with extremely thin line you can reach bottom with even the lightest jigs on most days.

Personally, I do not tie my own bucktails so there is a bit of a cost factor involved. Looks like you could be gunning for a line class record. If so, best of luck!
 
Captain Mike, I’m with Paul on this one. I only use Suffix 832 10 pound braid with about 5 feet of 30 pound floro at Cartwright, Lovers Ledge, Rocky Hill, etc and I cant tell you how many times the floro breaks instead of the braid when I get hung up.

I think for guys fishing the really big structure spots in South Jersey (train cars, barges, etc) will want to use thicker braid, but ten is all you need in our local waters.
 
I haven’t done it in a while but when i tied barbell weights to berkley fireline it broke at way over the listed test
 
I believe that Berkley has discontinued regular Fireline and is subbing their Ultra 8 Carrier line in its place.

No great loss from my perspective. Never cared for the original. Too thick, too flat, too stiff for the entire first season of use and it fuzzed up way too easily. It did waaay over-test though - again in keeping with its absurd diameter/thickness.

Its my understanding that many in the surfcasting community liked it, mainly because it wouldn't create handling and wind-knot issues on old-school spinning reels (like the Penn 704 and Mitchell 302/402). Unlike the newer braids which can be a handful to use on the older generation of surf reels - unless you step up big time in pound test, and thus diameter. . .

For further reading on this subject:

 
I still have plenty of it which I do use on my surfcasting reels. I agree about the fuzzies and the 20lb stuff wind knots more easily than the 30, but I prefer to risk a wind knot standing on the beach. (Yep, diameter "size" matters.) I started using Daiwa J-braid on my light kayak setups. Just use mono when catching snappers to liveline.
 
Sounds like you have a good handle on working the light stuff even in some of the more unforgiving areas. No doubt that with extremely thin line you can reach bottom with even the lightest jigs on most days.

Personally, I do not tie my own bucktails so there is a bit of a cost factor involved. Looks like you could be gunning for a line class record. If so, best of luck!
I’m far from a fluke sharpie, I’ve been fishing montauk for 10 years and It’s yet to cough up a monster fish for me. I have a few 9lb fish but have yet to get that Montauk DD. Had a heart breaker last year on the opening day when water was still to cold to bucktail and lost something very large on the north side fishing a whole squid on a tandem rig. I hope to get another shot at that fish sometime in the future. Nantucket is a different animal and have multiple DD fish and I’m close to adopting the idea that Nantucket fish don’t count!! Tight lines this season Capt!!
 
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