outboard repair can be very expensive and frustrating when not fixed

senkosam

New Angler
I've had a 2.5 hp Mercury 4-stroke for 3 yrs. with no problems. This year it wouldn't start. Took it to one shop and was charged $$$ to fix it. When I went to pick it up, I was shown that it started and didn't stall at slow idle. Put it on the transom and tried starting it at home. NO GO! The second trip to the mechanic no different than the first.

Took it to a different shop - same thing happened. Started in the shop, but not once after I got it home. It did start once on the water, but wouldn't start again 1/2 mi. from the launch. Not happy rowing all the way back, especially hearing thunder.
Again, $$$ wasted plus truck gas to transport the motor.

Disgusted, I bought a 4 hp from Amazon but still haven't used it.
Not wanting to feel the frustration of a gas motor not starting, I ordered a 62# thrust Newport 12v trolling motor (man is that motor fast!!)

But every day, I still tried to start the 2.5 hp with zero starting until I had an idea: loosen the gas cap.
WOOSH, air replaced the vacuum and the motor started and idled every day from that day on! I found out the vent on the cap wasn't venting. Plus, the cool temperature in the shop was much cooler than that of the motor sitting in the hot sun, which may account for being able to start the motor in those shops.

All that money wasted on a defective gas tank vent!
 
You betcha! Too bad they don't refund your money when they fail!:confused:
Same thing happened with my bow mount, foot-controlled trolling motor on my Tracker. The mechanic didn't have a clue how to fix the problem and suggested I buy a new one. I can only imagine the cost of installation plus that of a new t.m. ($650). I found the problem and fixed it myself!
history:
The problem was a stiff foot-control used for turning my Motor Guide trolling motor on my Tracker. It got so bad that I left the lake early due to a leg spasm trying to adjust prop direction in a 20 mph wind.
Before giving up, I noticed that the shaft wasn't one piece. The bar below the clamp rotates/ the bar above is fixed and is part of height adjustment held tight with a rotating handle. (same for any t.m.)
I found out that loosening the lower clamp freed up the lower shaft allowing the foot pedal to turn it easily!

Another example:
I had a problem starting my 2003 Chevy truck and the check engine light wouldn't shut off. A buddy suggested it was time for a new one, but I'm retired and not in the market for a new one costing over 20 grand!
One mechanic put the truck on a tester, but no codes were generated to fix it. So for the H of it, I went to Mavis Tire to check my tire treads (I need 4) and in passing told the mechanic I had to jump the battery to get it started and that the check engine light wouldn't allow it to pass inspection.
He checked the battery - no good as it turned out - and installed a new one. Now it starts fine, the emergency light went off and it passed inspection!
So much for dumping a reliable 4-wheel drive that pulls my boat and goes off-road great in the roughest terrain!
 
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