1996 Privateer Renegade I/O to Outboard Conversion

[wader]

had to look that one up............

 

[Mbg75]

ARP makes an ultra torque fastener lube. Prevents Galling, allows proper torque without having to back off and re-torque.
Been using it for years, never an issue.

Info on it
ARP info

 

[Capt13]

I'll give it a try, thanks for that !

 

[Mbg75]

I'll give it a try, thanks for that !

If you need it right away. I may have some here.

 

[Capt13]

I appreciate the offer, but I have time ....... I still have to cut the bolt to remove the bracket. All the holes are marked and ready to be drilled. I'm a long way from bolting the bracket permanently to the transom.

 

[Old Mud]

Cappy, if you cant find the ARP you can use Never seize or even bacon fat. Glad your back at it.

 

[Fluke Whisperer]

Hey ca

I also encountered something new to me in regard to stainless bolts ....... galling. I'll get to that later.

The bracket was put on with two bolts holding it. Even though they sent the mylar template for bolt hole locations for the central part of the bracket, I wanted to mark them myself using the bracket in place.

In order to be as acurrate as possible, I used a 1/2" dowel as a spacer/guide and drilled a 1/8" hole thru the middle.


View attachment 11592


View attachment 11593

The red tape was added because the holes are actually slightly over sized for the 1/2" bolts. I think 17/32". The tape created a snug fit.

View attachment 11594

After I marked all the holes, I went to take the bracket off. One bolt locked up and I could no longer turn the nut either way. That is how I learned about Galling.

Hey Capt13, you using fine or coarse thread, depending on the grade of the ss, certain grades are notorious for galling, I ran into that problem with 1/4x 20 ss bolts, 304 I think was the grade, there are 4 grades and hardness and some ss are to soft in my opinion to make fasteners.

 

[Capt13]

Not sure of the grade FW ...... they were supplied with the bracket from Stainless marine. They are coarse thread and have lock nuts with the nylon insert, which I have since read are more susceptible to galling.

 

[Fluke Whisperer]

Not sure of the grade FW ...... they were supplied with the bracket from Stainless marine. They are coarse thread and have lock nuts with the nylon insert, which I have since read are more susceptible to galling.

Yea, cheapest to make coarse thread, very problematic, never had problems with fine threads 1/4 20 yes 1/4 28 no.

 

[Capt13]

Happy to be back at it ! Drilled the holes for the bracket. Didn't trust myself free handing the drilling. Bought one of these:

Started with a 3/16" bit to get started. Followed that with a 3/8" and the 17/32" recomended by Stainless Marine. Bolts are 1/2".

 

[Roccus7]

Happy to be back at it ! Drilled the holes for the bracket. Didn't trust myself free handind the drilling. Bought one of these:

View attachment 14659

Started with a 3/16" bit to get started. Followed that with a 3/8" and the 17/32" recomended by Stainless Marine. Bolts are 1/2".

View attachment 14660

When you retire you could really live large rehabbing boats!!

 

[Capt13]

After grinding down the rough glass and old fillets, added new fillets at the forward bulkhead connection, I finished the last of tabbing in of the new stringers ..... I normally like to work wet on wet but ran out of time ran when I was last working on it. Glass was applied on the fillets when they were still wet.

 

[Capt13]

I decided to re-work the transom transition area to accommodate the bracket bolt pattern rather than re-drill thru the powder coated bracket. Used an oversize hole saw to remove the 3/4" ply and also to cut new pieces. Glued in place with thickened epoxy.

 

[cany]

Looking good Capt

 

[JoeBfishing]

What he said...

 

[Capt13]

Putting in a couple hours every day ......

Fitted cross members to anchor the new poly tank. Foaming in is not recommended because of the expansion that poly tanks experience.

Glassed in the modification for the bracket mounting bolts.

 

[Capt13]

Removed this strip between tank and aft sections. It wasn't solid and as it turned out, it had a seam from two sections of the deck plywood.

 

[Capt13]

When they built the boat they got lucky this nail missed the fuel fill hose and vent line. The opening is where they were located.

 

[Capt13]

Picked up another sheet of 3/4" ply and a sheet of 1/2" ply at Riverhead building supplies in Northport. Stopped on the way back to stock up on my traditional boat works supplies ..... beer and some Macanudo's to go along with the fireballs.

 

[Capt13]

Got the wood stove going early in the garage today. Cut the plywood for the deck above the tank. coated both sides with epoxy and glassed the underside. Found out that just coating the underside with epoxy resin waterproofs it in the beginning. Over time microcracks in the resin will allow moisture in. now I include a 4 oz layer of glass to prevent that on the underside. I added a 3/16 layer of meranti ply around the cutout for the bilge access hatch. Hopefully it will keep the hatch are slightly above the rest of the deck.

The ply had a bow in it so I added some weights to try and keep it straight while the epoxy cured.